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<blockquote data-quote="req" data-source="post: 822044" data-attributes="member: 555713"><p>ok. contrairy to popular belief - i will post my ideas.</p><p></p><p><strong>-head unit</strong></p><p></p><p>although what you have is fine. like jack said. for reliabilities sake. those sony decks arent called Xplod for nothing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif ... otherwise. you should be fine.</p><p></p><p>splitting a single preout with a Y jack to your sub and component amp is not a problem - most amps now adays usually have a 'rca output' to daisy chain amps to the same signal. so dont worry about that at all. you could also use a Line Output Converter to source the signal from your speaker wires on the back of the deack instead of the RCA preout. that would work as well.</p><p></p><p><strong>-fontstage\rearstage</strong></p><p></p><p>frontstage components = good idea - look in the speaker section of the forums, theres TONS of "what speaker for $150 threads" and lots of good deals in the classifieds.</p><p></p><p>rearstage = not really nessicary. if you absolutly WANT, get a pair of CHEAP coax's that fit whatever speakers origionally go there (6x9 prolly) and run them off the head unit. but again, they will only get a little power, and if you turn the volume up high enough on the deck, they will distort and ruin everything //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif</p><p></p><p>now you said you had 5.25's in the dash - and if these are anything like my 1994 cavalier, they are on the extreme left and right facing at a *SLIGHT* angle toward the lisner, but facing mostly upward. thats not very good placement IMO. the best bet, is to see if you can (like stated) mount them in the bottom corners of the car (the kicks) with fiberglass, or put them in the doors. the tweets generally should be mounted around 10" from the midwoofer, aimed a few inches in front of the *OPPOSITE* listners face.</p><p></p><p>amplification = teh own, almost NESSICARY for good sound at moderate volumes. i cant stand listning to speakers of a HU\stock amp anymore //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/bawling.gif.6287aa5d1d447c8af063fc9466e822ef.gif</p><p></p><p><strong>-amplifier(s)</strong></p><p></p><p>now, you said a 4 channel and bridge the 3\4 to the sub? you would really need to get one hell of a 4 channel amp to get over 200w when bridged. and there is alot of space in a cargovan to fill with sound. if it were me, id get a nice little 2 channel amp that does like 75x2@4 ohms, and then another little 2 channel amp that can do like 400@1@4ohms(bridged)... maybe like these;</p><p></p><p>65x2@4ohm - $70</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.thezeb.com/p-Profile-AP400-2-Channel-Amplifier-109691.htm" target="_blank">http://www.thezeb.com/p-Profile-AP400-2-Channel-Amplifier-109691.htm</a></p><p></p><p>300x1@4ohm - $100</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.thezeb.com/p-Profile-AP600-2-Channel-Amplifier-109690.htm" target="_blank">http://www.thezeb.com/p-Profile-AP600-2-Channel-Amplifier-109690.htm</a></p><p></p><p>now, you can get those amps ALOT CHEAPER by using thezeb's price match (look through <a href="http://www.millionbuy.com" target="_blank">http://www.millionbuy.com</a> for better prices on those amps) and you can save $15~30 one each amp - maybe even get a bigger amp for the subs too.</p><p></p><p>IMO - two two channel amps- one that will do 2xXX@4ohms for the fronts, and one that will do 1xXX@4ohms for the sub would be your best bet amplifier wise.</p><p></p><p><strong>-Substage</strong></p><p></p><p>now, one 10" speaker - for me, did NOT cut it. i had a resonant engineering 10" sub. i admit, i like bass more than the average Joe, but it didnt hit the extremly low notes (anything under 38hz basically) and it didnt sound how i wanted it. now dont get me wrong, you can make a box that will do that, but a 12 or 15 will have a much eaiser time with lower power levels doing this.</p><p></p><p>Atlas 15</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.ascendantaudio.com/Atlas%2015.htm" target="_blank">http://www.ascendantaudio.com/Atlas%2015.htm</a></p><p></p><p>but you can always spring for the atlas 12 if you dont feel comfertable with a 15. eaither way, they will sound great in a sealed box if you dont want to go ported.</p><p></p><p>that sub will work GREAT off a few hundred watts (at 4ohm) and you can put it in eaither a sealed box OR a ported box. you said you wanted to make a little bench? why not make a nice fat sealed box, and use it double as a bench? you got the room for it! you can make a bench that doubles as your amp rack, sub box, and wiring cover all in one fell swoop.</p><p></p><p>i would fiberglass the atlas to the bench to make it look cool though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p><strong>-Wiring</strong></p><p></p><p>take a look into walmart for some cheap deals on wiring kits. also <a href="http://www.knukonceptz.com" target="_blank">http://www.knukonceptz.com</a> has some good stuff... as well as <a href="http://www.weldingsupply.com." target="_blank">http://www.weldingsupply.com.</a> wire = wire really. i woulnt freak about it being stinger or boss wire, because internally, its still copper strands twisted together with a rubber coating. so walmart wiring should do fine... and 4 guage kit should cost like $30, and an 8 guage kit should cost $20. be wary about the 4 guage kits though, sometimes they give you barely enought 4 guage to get to the area you need it at.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="req, post: 822044, member: 555713"] ok. contrairy to popular belief - i will post my ideas. [B]-head unit[/B] although what you have is fine. like jack said. for reliabilities sake. those sony decks arent called Xplod for nothing [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] ... otherwise. you should be fine. splitting a single preout with a Y jack to your sub and component amp is not a problem - most amps now adays usually have a 'rca output' to daisy chain amps to the same signal. so dont worry about that at all. you could also use a Line Output Converter to source the signal from your speaker wires on the back of the deack instead of the RCA preout. that would work as well. [B]-fontstage\rearstage[/B] frontstage components = good idea - look in the speaker section of the forums, theres TONS of "what speaker for $150 threads" and lots of good deals in the classifieds. rearstage = not really nessicary. if you absolutly WANT, get a pair of CHEAP coax's that fit whatever speakers origionally go there (6x9 prolly) and run them off the head unit. but again, they will only get a little power, and if you turn the volume up high enough on the deck, they will distort and ruin everything [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif[/IMG] now you said you had 5.25's in the dash - and if these are anything like my 1994 cavalier, they are on the extreme left and right facing at a *SLIGHT* angle toward the lisner, but facing mostly upward. thats not very good placement IMO. the best bet, is to see if you can (like stated) mount them in the bottom corners of the car (the kicks) with fiberglass, or put them in the doors. the tweets generally should be mounted around 10" from the midwoofer, aimed a few inches in front of the *OPPOSITE* listners face. amplification = teh own, almost NESSICARY for good sound at moderate volumes. i cant stand listning to speakers of a HU\stock amp anymore [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/bawling.gif.6287aa5d1d447c8af063fc9466e822ef.gif[/IMG] [B]-amplifier(s)[/B] now, you said a 4 channel and bridge the 3\4 to the sub? you would really need to get one hell of a 4 channel amp to get over 200w when bridged. and there is alot of space in a cargovan to fill with sound. if it were me, id get a nice little 2 channel amp that does like 75x2@4 ohms, and then another little 2 channel amp that can do like 400@1@4ohms(bridged)... maybe like these; 65x2@4ohm - $70 [URL="http://www.thezeb.com/p-Profile-AP400-2-Channel-Amplifier-109691.htm"]http://www.thezeb.com/p-Profile-AP400-2-Channel-Amplifier-109691.htm[/URL] 300x1@4ohm - $100 [URL="http://www.thezeb.com/p-Profile-AP600-2-Channel-Amplifier-109690.htm"]http://www.thezeb.com/p-Profile-AP600-2-Channel-Amplifier-109690.htm[/URL] now, you can get those amps ALOT CHEAPER by using thezeb's price match (look through [URL="http://www.millionbuy.com"]http://www.millionbuy.com[/URL] for better prices on those amps) and you can save $15~30 one each amp - maybe even get a bigger amp for the subs too. IMO - two two channel amps- one that will do 2xXX@4ohms for the fronts, and one that will do 1xXX@4ohms for the sub would be your best bet amplifier wise. [B]-Substage[/B] now, one 10" speaker - for me, did NOT cut it. i had a resonant engineering 10" sub. i admit, i like bass more than the average Joe, but it didnt hit the extremly low notes (anything under 38hz basically) and it didnt sound how i wanted it. now dont get me wrong, you can make a box that will do that, but a 12 or 15 will have a much eaiser time with lower power levels doing this. Atlas 15 [URL="http://www.ascendantaudio.com/Atlas%2015.htm"]http://www.ascendantaudio.com/Atlas%2015.htm[/URL] but you can always spring for the atlas 12 if you dont feel comfertable with a 15. eaither way, they will sound great in a sealed box if you dont want to go ported. that sub will work GREAT off a few hundred watts (at 4ohm) and you can put it in eaither a sealed box OR a ported box. you said you wanted to make a little bench? why not make a nice fat sealed box, and use it double as a bench? you got the room for it! you can make a bench that doubles as your amp rack, sub box, and wiring cover all in one fell swoop. i would fiberglass the atlas to the bench to make it look cool though [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] [B]-Wiring[/B] take a look into walmart for some cheap deals on wiring kits. also [URL="http://www.knukonceptz.com"]http://www.knukonceptz.com[/URL] has some good stuff... as well as [URL="http://www.weldingsupply.com."]http://www.weldingsupply.com.[/URL] wire = wire really. i woulnt freak about it being stinger or boss wire, because internally, its still copper strands twisted together with a rubber coating. so walmart wiring should do fine... and 4 guage kit should cost like $30, and an 8 guage kit should cost $20. be wary about the 4 guage kits though, sometimes they give you barely enought 4 guage to get to the area you need it at. [/QUOTE]
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