I don't think they are shi**y amps...but you get what you pay for...
Looking only at power specs does not tell the story: Which car is faster..blue has 300 HP and red has 400 HP...
IF that is all you know, you can't make the call as to which is faster right? Same with the specs on the side of the box. They only tell part of the story. The very best thing to do is to try to find someone that has what you want to buy and have it demo'd with what you are trying to do with it. I worked at a shop that had a wall of subs on display...I mean we litterally had 30 pairs of subwoofers on demo for someone to hear. IF we wanted, we could turn them all on at the same time...so we would do this with a little Zapco 20 watt amp just to do it...Sure, loaded to the max this little amp (we're talking an amp that was about 6 inches by 5 inches with a whopping 40 watt fuse) would probably put out like 600 watts or so, but the sound...holy crap, it didn't sound good, but it drove all 60 subs AT ONCE. This set-up, 60 subs with about 600 watts would give us about 130 db in our room...and we also had a single 6" sub we could run with the same amp that would also hit 130 db. So...the raw power figures means nothing really.
Raw power is measured with the amp maxed out running a resistor...you can't hear how crappy it sounds, and the company really won't share the specs, 'cause they don't want you to see that the max power was made with 40% distortion.
Best Advice: Look at what you NEED to do with your system. Face it: You will never be the loudest...never. Make your system sound good enough for you, and live with it. Try each amp with the same set-up you want to run with it. Trust your ears. In real world applications, take whatever you see on the box for a profile and cut it in half...that is what it can do without being hard on your system.