Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Amps
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="stones" data-source="post: 1418945" data-attributes="member: 540734"><p>For a decent SQ system try this-</p><p></p><p>Your gonna want a good strong front stage to start with-</p><p></p><p>Get a pair of quality component speakers or at least a good set of coaxials and have them installed in custom made fiberglass kicks in the foot wells or custom mount them in the front doors, the 3.5's in the dash simply won't cut it don't bother with them at all.</p><p></p><p>Rear fill-</p><p></p><p>Don't bother wasting money on a pair of fancy 6x9's for the back, you want the sound in front of you not behind. Just leave the factory holes open, it will let the bass flow easier into the cabin of the vehicle. Your rear seat passengers will appreciate this as well because they won't have a speaker blaring right beside their ear, instead they will enjoy the proper stereo front stage sound.</p><p></p><p>Subs-</p><p></p><p>Plop the box in your trunk with the subs facing you when you open the trunk, it looks nice and acoustically sounds better (something to with cancellation, long story.)</p><p></p><p>Powering the front stage with a four channel amp-</p><p></p><p>Bridge channels A and make them the Right side channel then bridge channel B and make that the left side channel. To get the proper RCA signal just run a regular set of RCA's from the front output on the deck back to the amp and use a simple RCA splitter on each channel, channel A would get the right RCA plug while channel B would get the left, although I think you could just plug the the two sides into each channel with out the splitters and get the same result as its just a mono signal going into each side anyway. Doing all this will change your amp from 50 watts x4 to around 150 watts x2 for the best possible output from your front speakers.</p><p></p><p>Power wires, RCA's, hooking it up-</p><p></p><p>-For RCA's we need 2 pairs, one for the sub output and one for the front output, the rear is not being used.</p><p></p><p>-If the remote turn on wire is already run just hook it to one amp then loop it to the next.</p><p></p><p>-You said you already have a power wire ran, hopefully you have a power wire that is at least an 8 gauge(I would prefer 4 gauge) to run these two amps a good thick power wire ensures optimum amplifier performance (as well as ground). to connect this wire to your amps do not loop the wire from one amp to the next instead use a distribution block. Secure the main wire into the distribution block then run the smaller wires from the multiple output to the two separate amps, the one I'm thinking of is a 4gauge in with 4 8 gauge out I'm pretty sure you can get them at Wal-Mart pretty cheap.</p><p></p><p>For a main fuse at the battery a 60 amp should do fine for those two amps, this is assuming you haven't used a crappy 12 gauge wire for power, if you did the 60 amp fuse would exceed the thermal rating of the power wire if ran from engine bay to trunk (power wire capacity is directly related to length).</p><p></p><p>-Ground both amps with a wire the same size as their power wire to a spot on the vehicle chassis, be sure to scrape off any paint on the grounding spot to ensure a good connection, ground both amps at the same spot.</p><p></p><p>-Connect a ground wire from your battery's negative terminal and connect it to the fender/chassis of the vehicle, use a wire the same thickness as your main power wire, remember to scrape off the paint at the connecting point for a good connection (this ensures the amps grounds have a good path back to the battery).</p><p></p><p>Umm, thats all I can think of right now.</p><p></p><p>That SK for your location is that short for Saskatchewan?, I'm from there.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="stones, post: 1418945, member: 540734"] For a decent SQ system try this- Your gonna want a good strong front stage to start with- Get a pair of quality component speakers or at least a good set of coaxials and have them installed in custom made fiberglass kicks in the foot wells or custom mount them in the front doors, the 3.5's in the dash simply won't cut it don't bother with them at all. Rear fill- Don't bother wasting money on a pair of fancy 6x9's for the back, you want the sound in front of you not behind. Just leave the factory holes open, it will let the bass flow easier into the cabin of the vehicle. Your rear seat passengers will appreciate this as well because they won't have a speaker blaring right beside their ear, instead they will enjoy the proper stereo front stage sound. Subs- Plop the box in your trunk with the subs facing you when you open the trunk, it looks nice and acoustically sounds better (something to with cancellation, long story.) Powering the front stage with a four channel amp- Bridge channels A and make them the Right side channel then bridge channel B and make that the left side channel. To get the proper RCA signal just run a regular set of RCA's from the front output on the deck back to the amp and use a simple RCA splitter on each channel, channel A would get the right RCA plug while channel B would get the left, although I think you could just plug the the two sides into each channel with out the splitters and get the same result as its just a mono signal going into each side anyway. Doing all this will change your amp from 50 watts x4 to around 150 watts x2 for the best possible output from your front speakers. Power wires, RCA's, hooking it up- -For RCA's we need 2 pairs, one for the sub output and one for the front output, the rear is not being used. -If the remote turn on wire is already run just hook it to one amp then loop it to the next. -You said you already have a power wire ran, hopefully you have a power wire that is at least an 8 gauge(I would prefer 4 gauge) to run these two amps a good thick power wire ensures optimum amplifier performance (as well as ground). to connect this wire to your amps do not loop the wire from one amp to the next instead use a distribution block. Secure the main wire into the distribution block then run the smaller wires from the multiple output to the two separate amps, the one I'm thinking of is a 4gauge in with 4 8 gauge out I'm pretty sure you can get them at Wal-Mart pretty cheap. For a main fuse at the battery a 60 amp should do fine for those two amps, this is assuming you haven't used a crappy 12 gauge wire for power, if you did the 60 amp fuse would exceed the thermal rating of the power wire if ran from engine bay to trunk (power wire capacity is directly related to length). -Ground both amps with a wire the same size as their power wire to a spot on the vehicle chassis, be sure to scrape off any paint on the grounding spot to ensure a good connection, ground both amps at the same spot. -Connect a ground wire from your battery's negative terminal and connect it to the fender/chassis of the vehicle, use a wire the same thickness as your main power wire, remember to scrape off the paint at the connecting point for a good connection (this ensures the amps grounds have a good path back to the battery). Umm, thats all I can think of right now. That SK for your location is that short for Saskatchewan?, I'm from there. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Amps
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list