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<blockquote data-quote="RandyJ" data-source="post: 632929" data-attributes="member: 557626">JoseMCeee, do you know what you are talking about? If his amp pulls a max of 95 amps, then 120 is a little too big of a size fuse, after it popped it would already of allowed something like 130-140A to the amp, and I dont believe the BD1501&#039;s are internally fused are they? So that fused distro stuff would not be a waste of money, it would be very helpful actually.4awg will be sufficient for that amp, if you plan on upgrading later or running another amp then 0awg will probably be in order though.&nbsp; 0awg can bring up many difficulties when building your system if you do not have the space available or money, because the extra cost of 0awg will add up if you are on a budget.A cap will help depending on your system and car.&nbsp; What type of car/truck is it? If you have a f350 with a big *** 180A alty and 900A deep cycle battery, you wont need one, but if you have a smaller car, a cap may help, or another battery, big 3 upgrade or an HO alty. That would take care of the flickering for the most part. I assume you mean light dimming?Popping fuses, you were most likely doing that because your amp was pulling too much for the fuse. It opens up to alow a certain amount of amperage above what it is rated to flow through for only a certain period of time, after that it will pop. So if your amp was drawing 80A and you had a 60A fuse, it would pop after a certain amount of time, but not right away.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="RandyJ, post: 632929, member: 557626"] JoseMCeee, do you know what you are talking about? If his amp pulls a max of 95 amps, then 120 is a little too big of a size fuse, after it popped it would already of allowed something like 130-140A to the amp, and I dont believe the BD1501's are internally fused are they? So that fused distro stuff [B]would not[/B] be a waste of money, it would be very helpful actually. 4awg will be sufficient for that amp, if you plan on upgrading later or running another amp then 0awg will probably be in order though. 0awg can bring up many difficulties when building your system if you do not have the space available or money, because the extra cost of 0awg will add up if you are on a budget. A cap will help depending on your system and car. What type of car/truck is it? If you have a f350 with a big *** 180A alty and 900A deep cycle battery, you wont need one, but if you have a smaller car, a cap may help, or another battery, big 3 upgrade or an HO alty. That would take care of the flickering for the most part. I assume you mean light dimming? Popping fuses, you were most likely doing that because your amp was pulling too much for the fuse. It opens up to alow a certain amount of amperage above what it is rated to flow through for only a certain period of time, after that it will pop. So if your amp was drawing 80A and you had a 60A fuse, it would pop after a certain amount of time, but not right away. [/QUOTE]

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