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Car Audio Discussion
Amplifiers
Amp with Dsp built in help
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<blockquote data-quote="winkychevelle" data-source="post: 8812387" data-attributes="member: 611804"><p>Ok</p><p></p><p>1. You could hook up a sub to the stadium 4 amp if you bridged the rear channels.and just ran the rear speakers off the headunit. Personally I'd do a completely separate amp. I also would avoid self powerwd subs as they give you a little bass but not much. Most people eventually upgrade them. To me a 500w sub and a 500w amp with a proper custom box is a better investment. $500 maybe less in equip and some time to build a box is a better value.</p><p></p><p>2. Having pods to point the tweeters at the driver can help exponentially. But you don't have to get super fancy. Some pvc endcaps with some hollow threaded tube can make some nice pods with just a coat of plastidip. Reflecting of the windshield is my least favorite way to place tweeters. If you must do this I'd suggest a carpet dash mat to help absorb the excessive reflections.</p><p></p><p>3. Midbass comes from door treatments and tuning. Make sure you don't have one of the positive and negatives flipped and that both of them are in phase. You can usually let a sub play up to about 100hz if needed to cover the lower midbass range. Most properly installed midbass drivers can easily handle 100hz-3500hz.</p><p></p><p>4. Without digging into your equipment idk if you even have the ability to adjust the tweeters separate from the mids. I doubt you do but if the crossover is biamp capable. Running the tweeters on a separate channel from the mid allows for a lot more control over the tweeter using time alignment and possible individual channel eq, depending on the dsp used. Without a way to delay the sound coming from the tweeters or tone them down individually your sound stage will likely be very high and bright on the drivers side.</p><p></p><p>5. The dac on the headunit might not be great but I doubt it's making enough of a difference to be worth changing right away.</p><p></p><p>6. On your headunit settings turn off any boost, try and use minimal eq as boosting often creates distortion. And of course set the hpf to at least 80hz so the mids aren't trying to be subs. that should help clean up a muddy midrange. [ATTACH=full]43070[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]43071[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]43072[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]43073[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="winkychevelle, post: 8812387, member: 611804"] Ok 1. You could hook up a sub to the stadium 4 amp if you bridged the rear channels.and just ran the rear speakers off the headunit. Personally I'd do a completely separate amp. I also would avoid self powerwd subs as they give you a little bass but not much. Most people eventually upgrade them. To me a 500w sub and a 500w amp with a proper custom box is a better investment. $500 maybe less in equip and some time to build a box is a better value. 2. Having pods to point the tweeters at the driver can help exponentially. But you don't have to get super fancy. Some pvc endcaps with some hollow threaded tube can make some nice pods with just a coat of plastidip. Reflecting of the windshield is my least favorite way to place tweeters. If you must do this I'd suggest a carpet dash mat to help absorb the excessive reflections. 3. Midbass comes from door treatments and tuning. Make sure you don't have one of the positive and negatives flipped and that both of them are in phase. You can usually let a sub play up to about 100hz if needed to cover the lower midbass range. Most properly installed midbass drivers can easily handle 100hz-3500hz. 4. Without digging into your equipment idk if you even have the ability to adjust the tweeters separate from the mids. I doubt you do but if the crossover is biamp capable. Running the tweeters on a separate channel from the mid allows for a lot more control over the tweeter using time alignment and possible individual channel eq, depending on the dsp used. Without a way to delay the sound coming from the tweeters or tone them down individually your sound stage will likely be very high and bright on the drivers side. 5. The dac on the headunit might not be great but I doubt it's making enough of a difference to be worth changing right away. 6. On your headunit settings turn off any boost, try and use minimal eq as boosting often creates distortion. And of course set the hpf to at least 80hz so the mids aren't trying to be subs. that should help clean up a muddy midrange. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20181202_172337.jpg"]43070[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" alt="PXL_20220918_223049344.MP.jpg"]43071[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" alt="20180503_121807.jpg"]43072[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" alt="20180503_121819.jpg"]43073[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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