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<blockquote data-quote="Deiimos" data-source="post: 8774869" data-attributes="member: 682903"><p>When powering on an unknown amp, use a current limiter. A quick method is to hook it up with a 10 amp fuse in line (for smaller amps), real tiny amps maybe a 5 or 7 amp fuse, bigger amps 15 amp fuse. This way if something is wrong you don’t get extremely fried parts, just a blown fuse. Can also power an amp up through an old automotive light bulb which will limit how much current goes into an amp, I forget the model bulb, but use to use a taillight bulb that only allowed about 2 amps to pass. It is typically enough to let an amp idle for basic testing, and if there is a fault with the amp the lightbulb simply glows full brightness.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, the amp that let out smoke sounds like dead power supply MOSFETs and associated parts, possibly bad output transistors as well.</p><p></p><p>If you have a digital multi-meter, you can take the cover off and check the MOSFETs for shorts before you even apply power. Or simply install a low value fuse before powering on the next one. You didn’t mention the amp model, so all I can say is start with perhaps a 10 amp fuse in line, if it doesn’t blow that then continue your testing for output as normal, leave the 10 amp in until your ready to test for high output. If it does blow the 10 amp while its charging its rail capacitors, you could possible try a 15 amp, some amps pull a lot of current at startup.</p><p></p><p>If these are some insane 5 - 10KW amps then this might not be applicable.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Deiimos, post: 8774869, member: 682903"] When powering on an unknown amp, use a current limiter. A quick method is to hook it up with a 10 amp fuse in line (for smaller amps), real tiny amps maybe a 5 or 7 amp fuse, bigger amps 15 amp fuse. This way if something is wrong you don’t get extremely fried parts, just a blown fuse. Can also power an amp up through an old automotive light bulb which will limit how much current goes into an amp, I forget the model bulb, but use to use a taillight bulb that only allowed about 2 amps to pass. It is typically enough to let an amp idle for basic testing, and if there is a fault with the amp the lightbulb simply glows full brightness. Anyway, the amp that let out smoke sounds like dead power supply MOSFETs and associated parts, possibly bad output transistors as well. If you have a digital multi-meter, you can take the cover off and check the MOSFETs for shorts before you even apply power. Or simply install a low value fuse before powering on the next one. You didn’t mention the amp model, so all I can say is start with perhaps a 10 amp fuse in line, if it doesn’t blow that then continue your testing for output as normal, leave the 10 amp in until your ready to test for high output. If it does blow the 10 amp while its charging its rail capacitors, you could possible try a 15 amp, some amps pull a lot of current at startup. If these are some insane 5 - 10KW amps then this might not be applicable. [/QUOTE]
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