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<blockquote data-quote="IDSkoT" data-source="post: 4435330" data-attributes="member: 584344">Well, that&#039;s why it&#039;s going into protect mode. The lower the voltage an amp gets, the harder it has to work to produce the power it was designed to produce, thus creating more heat.As far as damage,An amp run on &amp;gt;12v after a while will start to break down. It CAN run on &amp;gt;12v, but it&#039;s not recommended. Most people who&#039;re really into car audio systems have 14v+. At &amp;gt;12v, after time, the amp will be damaged.Now, the second battery thing isn&#039;t useless. It goes under the same straw as a capacitor-- except a lot better/more effecient. Your amps pull from this reservoir when necessary.The same theory goes with getting a bigger/better main battery. So there&#039;s a larger reservoir to pull from.This is what I&#039;d suggest: do the big three in anything larger than 0 AWG. I like to keep the Big 3 wire bigger than the wire running to your amps. But, regardless, any wire additional wire is better than no wire. Another thing you might want to think of is the fact that you can have a HUGE 4/0 wire, and it might give you the same amount of flow as a 4AWG on idle/low pull. But when your car needs more power and the alt starts pumping out more power, the 4/0 wire can handle it, while the 4 gauge would just disperse the excess.Invest in a DMM, if you don&#039;t have one. After the Big 3 is done, monitor your voltage to your amps &#039;in&#039; at the range that your amps would get put into protection mode.Another thing that might be happening is your battery is old and you need a new one. If you do, spend $150 dollars and get a Yellowtop. They&#039;re fantastic batteries (or so I hear.)But it&#039;s not a ground. If it was a ground the amp would just go into protection mode on turn on... or you&#039;d get a really bad sound off of your subs.But, first do a full electrical overhaul. Big 3, new batt, and then test it. I&#039;m pretty sure that&#039;s all that&#039;s wrong.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="IDSkoT, post: 4435330, member: 584344"] Well, that's why it's going into protect mode. The lower the voltage an amp gets, the harder it has to work to produce the power it was designed to produce, thus creating more heat. As far as damage, An amp run on >12v after a while will start to break down. It CAN run on >12v, but it's not recommended. Most people who're really into car audio systems have 14v+. At >12v, after time, the amp will be damaged. Now, the second battery thing isn't useless. It goes under the same straw as a capacitor-- except a lot better/more effecient. Your amps pull from this reservoir when necessary. The same theory goes with getting a bigger/better main battery. So there's a larger reservoir to pull from. This is what I'd suggest: do the big three in anything larger than 0 AWG. I like to keep the Big 3 wire bigger than the wire running to your amps. But, regardless, any wire additional wire is better than no wire. Another thing you might want to think of is the fact that you can have a HUGE 4/0 wire, and it might give you the same amount of flow as a 4AWG on idle/low pull. But when your car needs more power and the alt starts pumping out more power, the 4/0 wire can handle it, while the 4 gauge would just disperse the excess. Invest in a DMM, if you don't have one. After the Big 3 is done, monitor your voltage to your amps 'in' at the range that your amps would get put into protection mode. Another thing that might be happening is your battery is old and you need a new one. If you do, spend $150 dollars and get a Yellowtop. They're fantastic batteries (or so I hear.) But it's not a ground. If it was a ground the amp would just go into protection mode on turn on... or you'd get a really bad sound off of your subs. But, first do a full electrical overhaul. Big 3, new batt, and then test it. I'm pretty sure that's all that's wrong. [/QUOTE]

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