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<blockquote data-quote="Emvaz" data-source="post: 7749124" data-attributes="member: 640044"><p>Hey all; recently had a new pair of JL HD 900/5s installed to replace my old 600w baby Memphis Belle in my '06 Nissan Altima SE-R. Running a Pioneer DEX-P99RS. I have the 500w channel of each amp running to each of my 12" subs in a sealed box. On one amp I have the 4 100w channels bridged to my HAT Clarus 6.5 midbasses. On the other amp I'm powering the front tweeters and rear coaxials. So thats a 3x increase in rated power amplification over what I had.</p><p></p><p>The problem is that, while the accuracy and detail is noticeably much improved, the subs don't hit as hard as they used to. Not nearly as hard. In fact, at 20-25hz the response is basically nonexistant, as well as the 100hz response of the midbass is totally not there, and I have yet to be able to really get them to come to life like I know they can. This using a series of test tones I played shortly before doing the new install.</p><p></p><p>During the install of the amplifiers, the stock 4g cable running from the battery to the amplifier was replaced by a 2g cable routed through a switchboard (in lieu of a fuse) by recommendation of the installer. I also has a battery cable end replaced, as it had been corroded through and melted, which is something that has happened recently. I'm currently running a stock interstate battery and alternator, which I suspect to be the issues. The amplifiers themselves get extremely hot after only a moderate listening session, which I have heard can be an issue of current starvation. My HID headlights don't flicker at all but the interior light do badly when the vehicle is idling and the subs try to hit. The individual drivers themselves seem to drop off at the lowest frequencies of their given crossover range, which are their most energy-demanding times of operation, so it definitely seems to be a current-demand issue.</p><p></p><p>The installer recommended first to replace my primary battery with a deep cycle AGM battery. The next step would be to replace my capacitor with a second AGM, if the single battery solution didn't work, followed by a bigger alternator.</p><p></p><p>Realistically, could these two amplifiers (which are supposed to be relatively efficient due to being full-range d-class) be powered to my satisfaction by a single battery, even a large AGM? Would my stock alternator be able to keep up? How long can I expect one of these very pricey AGM batteries to last? Any specific battery recommendations for my application?</p><p></p><p>Thanks for any advise.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Emvaz, post: 7749124, member: 640044"] Hey all; recently had a new pair of JL HD 900/5s installed to replace my old 600w baby Memphis Belle in my '06 Nissan Altima SE-R. Running a Pioneer DEX-P99RS. I have the 500w channel of each amp running to each of my 12" subs in a sealed box. On one amp I have the 4 100w channels bridged to my HAT Clarus 6.5 midbasses. On the other amp I'm powering the front tweeters and rear coaxials. So thats a 3x increase in rated power amplification over what I had. The problem is that, while the accuracy and detail is noticeably much improved, the subs don't hit as hard as they used to. Not nearly as hard. In fact, at 20-25hz the response is basically nonexistant, as well as the 100hz response of the midbass is totally not there, and I have yet to be able to really get them to come to life like I know they can. This using a series of test tones I played shortly before doing the new install. During the install of the amplifiers, the stock 4g cable running from the battery to the amplifier was replaced by a 2g cable routed through a switchboard (in lieu of a fuse) by recommendation of the installer. I also has a battery cable end replaced, as it had been corroded through and melted, which is something that has happened recently. I'm currently running a stock interstate battery and alternator, which I suspect to be the issues. The amplifiers themselves get extremely hot after only a moderate listening session, which I have heard can be an issue of current starvation. My HID headlights don't flicker at all but the interior light do badly when the vehicle is idling and the subs try to hit. The individual drivers themselves seem to drop off at the lowest frequencies of their given crossover range, which are their most energy-demanding times of operation, so it definitely seems to be a current-demand issue. The installer recommended first to replace my primary battery with a deep cycle AGM battery. The next step would be to replace my capacitor with a second AGM, if the single battery solution didn't work, followed by a bigger alternator. Realistically, could these two amplifiers (which are supposed to be relatively efficient due to being full-range d-class) be powered to my satisfaction by a single battery, even a large AGM? Would my stock alternator be able to keep up? How long can I expect one of these very pricey AGM batteries to last? Any specific battery recommendations for my application? Thanks for any advise. [/QUOTE]
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