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Alpine Type S or Infinity Reference
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<blockquote data-quote="Notwerk" data-source="post: 2380227" data-attributes="member: 553427"><p>Well, it would be infinite baffle either way. The MDF baffle is just for fit, just something to mount the speaker to. Not sure if you understand what I mean, but what I'm saying is to take a .5 inch-thick piece of MDF, cut it to the 6x9 factory hole (basically, the outline of your factory speaker), drill appropriate holes to screw it into the factory speaker mount, and then install the 6.5 inch round into a hole cut in the middle of the MDF plate. The MDF, by nature of its density and material, absorbs some of the vibrations that would otherwise be directly transferred to the door metal, thereby reducing resonances, etc.</p><p></p><p>I always use baffles even when I don't have to just because it sounds better. Add some other sound-deadening to the rest of the door and it helps improve the sound quite a bit.</p><p></p><p>The problem with the plastic adaptor plates is that since they're made of hard plastic, they do nothing to cut down those vibrations. An MDF baffle isn't absolutly necessary, but they usually charge like $10+ for the stupid plastic baffles. That buys a whole lot of MDF. Elbow grease is free, so I just prefer to make my own out of MDF, which is superior to the plastic anyway.</p><p></p><p>Depending on the speaker and the mounting hole, etc., you can sometimes get away with making an MDF baffle that can fit a 6.5 inch mid and a component tweeter next to it. That would allow you to fit a component set in the 6x9 opening. Not always an option, but you can sometimes do it.</p><p></p><p>Just other fabrication options.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Notwerk, post: 2380227, member: 553427"] Well, it would be infinite baffle either way. The MDF baffle is just for fit, just something to mount the speaker to. Not sure if you understand what I mean, but what I'm saying is to take a .5 inch-thick piece of MDF, cut it to the 6x9 factory hole (basically, the outline of your factory speaker), drill appropriate holes to screw it into the factory speaker mount, and then install the 6.5 inch round into a hole cut in the middle of the MDF plate. The MDF, by nature of its density and material, absorbs some of the vibrations that would otherwise be directly transferred to the door metal, thereby reducing resonances, etc. I always use baffles even when I don't have to just because it sounds better. Add some other sound-deadening to the rest of the door and it helps improve the sound quite a bit. The problem with the plastic adaptor plates is that since they're made of hard plastic, they do nothing to cut down those vibrations. An MDF baffle isn't absolutly necessary, but they usually charge like $10+ for the stupid plastic baffles. That buys a whole lot of MDF. Elbow grease is free, so I just prefer to make my own out of MDF, which is superior to the plastic anyway. Depending on the speaker and the mounting hole, etc., you can sometimes get away with making an MDF baffle that can fit a 6.5 inch mid and a component tweeter next to it. That would allow you to fit a component set in the 6x9 opening. Not always an option, but you can sometimes do it. Just other fabrication options. [/QUOTE]
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