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Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Advice on bypassing the head unit
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8674095" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>First things first... in a stock camry head unit the EQ is graphical not parametric you cant choose Q factors nor frequency of it. its just bass mid and treble.</p><p></p><p>you are literally going about this completely the wrong way. you cannot use your experience in home audio or DJ pro audio inside a car, there's soo much more sh*t in a car that factors into your total sound quality. </p><p></p><p>Your phone to preamp/dac is a horrible idea because AUX is one of the worse forms of getting a good signal in car audio its actually below bluetooth believe it or not since everything is aptx now or higher generation bluetooth the audio is actually pretty lossless. You also want to use the head unit's built in DAC vs your phone's sh*tty dac. However when you use a pre-amp dac, you have too many things in the signal chain that modifies the signal, your phone's dac, your preamp dac, your head unit's dac. Thats going to cause a lot of distortion and unwanted and unnatural peaks in the frequency response. In car audio less is more. Stick to one singular source aka your car's head unit. The stock head unit is trash because its not even a 16 bit dac and only provides 3-5 watts of power per speaker. Most proper head units have 24 bit dacs or higher. </p><p></p><p>Also a properly done system will literally sound good on any genre without you needing to constantly play with your EQ which indicates a horrible audio setup from the start. The more important factors are acoustical door treatments to turn the door into a proper speaker enclosure. Proper amounts of power and headroom, active crossover networks to quality mids and highs. Proper phasing and time correction along with proper front stage setup to have a real virtual concert on your dash. You literally can see the whole artist walking around on your dash by sound when a setup is done right.</p><p></p><p>I'd recommend skipping the head unit and just doing a dayton dsp + bluetooth dongle. Yes bluetooth why? Because i've done many tests and even a 320 mbps spotify bluetooth stream on the dayton DSP sounds massively better than a store bought CD with a stock head unit or RCAs from an aftermarket head unit with store bought CDs to the dayton dsp. AUX is the absolute worst dogsh*t quality of the bunch. The current bluetooth technology ensures little to no loss and all the sound processing and audio encoding is done on a quality audiophile grade DAC thats in the sound processor. Goes against conventional home and studio audio knowledge but welcome to car audio.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8674095, member: 650438"] First things first... in a stock camry head unit the EQ is graphical not parametric you cant choose Q factors nor frequency of it. its just bass mid and treble. you are literally going about this completely the wrong way. you cannot use your experience in home audio or DJ pro audio inside a car, there's soo much more sh*t in a car that factors into your total sound quality. Your phone to preamp/dac is a horrible idea because AUX is one of the worse forms of getting a good signal in car audio its actually below bluetooth believe it or not since everything is aptx now or higher generation bluetooth the audio is actually pretty lossless. You also want to use the head unit's built in DAC vs your phone's sh*tty dac. However when you use a pre-amp dac, you have too many things in the signal chain that modifies the signal, your phone's dac, your preamp dac, your head unit's dac. Thats going to cause a lot of distortion and unwanted and unnatural peaks in the frequency response. In car audio less is more. Stick to one singular source aka your car's head unit. The stock head unit is trash because its not even a 16 bit dac and only provides 3-5 watts of power per speaker. Most proper head units have 24 bit dacs or higher. Also a properly done system will literally sound good on any genre without you needing to constantly play with your EQ which indicates a horrible audio setup from the start. The more important factors are acoustical door treatments to turn the door into a proper speaker enclosure. Proper amounts of power and headroom, active crossover networks to quality mids and highs. Proper phasing and time correction along with proper front stage setup to have a real virtual concert on your dash. You literally can see the whole artist walking around on your dash by sound when a setup is done right. I'd recommend skipping the head unit and just doing a dayton dsp + bluetooth dongle. Yes bluetooth why? Because i've done many tests and even a 320 mbps spotify bluetooth stream on the dayton DSP sounds massively better than a store bought CD with a stock head unit or RCAs from an aftermarket head unit with store bought CDs to the dayton dsp. AUX is the absolute worst dogsh*t quality of the bunch. The current bluetooth technology ensures little to no loss and all the sound processing and audio encoding is done on a quality audiophile grade DAC thats in the sound processor. Goes against conventional home and studio audio knowledge but welcome to car audio. [/QUOTE]
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