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Acura TL IB install featuring Obsidian and Sundown
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<blockquote data-quote="Electrodynamic" data-source="post: 7348223" data-attributes="member: 548723"><p>I try to be as neat and tidy as possible. In these next two pics I will show how nice the Stinger kit is along with where to cut the power wire so that when you put the wire in the fuse holder you don't have any bright blue wire hanging out of the holder for a nice neat finish.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/WireFuseHolderweb.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>My thumb is right where I cut the wire and then stripped back just enough to go all the way into the fuse holder.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/WireCutweb.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Next comes the subwoofer connection. I used a LOC for simplicity. Simply disconnect the plug to the subwoofer,</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/ReardeckSubweb.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Use two male connectors and slide them into the female connectors of the factory connector to get your signal to the LOC. Here is a picture of one male connector inserted into the factory connector.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/SubConnectweb.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Next I started working on the subwoofer IB baffle. Cardboard and a contour gauge are necessities for this kind of work. Cardboard is easier to cut and a <em>lot</em> less expensive than wood. I used both cardboard and a contour gauge to get the shape of the baffle board.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/IBpannelweb.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The two open rectangles are where I will pass the wire through from one side to another and the dark line is where the baffle board is attached:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/BottomPanelweb.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I also drilled a hole (two holes are shown) on the bottom baffle board towards the front. There is an open hole in front of the factory grounding point shown in the Acurazine link. I put a bolt through that open hole and used it to go through the bottom board and screw it down. That way the enclosure/baffle will not move!</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/BottomPanel2web.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Electrodynamic, post: 7348223, member: 548723"] I try to be as neat and tidy as possible. In these next two pics I will show how nice the Stinger kit is along with where to cut the power wire so that when you put the wire in the fuse holder you don't have any bright blue wire hanging out of the holder for a nice neat finish. [IMG]http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/WireFuseHolderweb.jpg[/IMG] My thumb is right where I cut the wire and then stripped back just enough to go all the way into the fuse holder. [IMG]http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/WireCutweb.jpg[/IMG] Next comes the subwoofer connection. I used a LOC for simplicity. Simply disconnect the plug to the subwoofer, [IMG]http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/ReardeckSubweb.jpg[/IMG] Use two male connectors and slide them into the female connectors of the factory connector to get your signal to the LOC. Here is a picture of one male connector inserted into the factory connector. [IMG]http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/SubConnectweb.jpg[/IMG] Next I started working on the subwoofer IB baffle. Cardboard and a contour gauge are necessities for this kind of work. Cardboard is easier to cut and a [I]lot[/I] less expensive than wood. I used both cardboard and a contour gauge to get the shape of the baffle board. [IMG]http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/IBpannelweb.jpg[/IMG] The two open rectangles are where I will pass the wire through from one side to another and the dark line is where the baffle board is attached: [IMG]http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/BottomPanelweb.jpg[/IMG] I also drilled a hole (two holes are shown) on the bottom baffle board towards the front. There is an open hole in front of the factory grounding point shown in the Acurazine link. I put a bolt through that open hole and used it to go through the bottom board and screw it down. That way the enclosure/baffle will not move! [IMG]http://www.stereointegrity.com/images/TL/BottomPanel2web.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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Acura TL IB install featuring Obsidian and Sundown
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