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<blockquote data-quote="LongThrow" data-source="post: 8295929" data-attributes="member: 661351"><p>I traded a 32 inch 6 year old plasma HDTV for a semi-new 10 inch kicker comp in a truck box and a Sony xplod xm502z. I have 8g wire for my ground, grounded to the bolt that bolts my driver seat into place.i have another 8g wire going from my 12v to my battery positive terminal. Using 16g speaker wire.</p><p></p><p>When I had my sub and Amp all hooked up the first attempt, my sub would barely hit or flex like it's supposed to. I recheced my wires and noticed my 12v connection to my Amp wasn't entirely secure, when I wiggled the power cable my Amp would lose and regain power so I rescrewed that cable in and now it seems I have a better connection, my sub hits a bit harder now but still not to the extent that it should.</p><p></p><p>With my sub sounding a bit better I turn the volume up on my kenwood KDC MP 238 (maxes volume at 35, 50x4 peak so I'd assume 20-25rms per channel. At about 20+ the stock door speakers in my 94 ford explorer sound TERRIBLE. they don't sound blown but rather just dirty and distorted. I notice with my Amp and sub unhooked they said a tad bit better at higher volumes but not much.</p><p></p><p>So, I thought I'd replae my door speakers the only fit being a5 by 7 or a 6 by 9 . I looked on Amazon and found a cheap 5 by 7 but its rated at over a hundred RMS wats . With my Kenwood head unit powering my door speakers I figured it would do the same as my stock speakers and would just underdrive them causing distortion from clipping.</p><p></p><p>Sub rated at 150watts rms @ohms. Amp rated 125x1 @4ohms.</p><p></p><p>What do I need to do to get the sub hitting like it should and to fix my distortion problem in my door speakers</p><p></p><p>If I need anymore info or pictures I will provide them</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="LongThrow, post: 8295929, member: 661351"] I traded a 32 inch 6 year old plasma HDTV for a semi-new 10 inch kicker comp in a truck box and a Sony xplod xm502z. I have 8g wire for my ground, grounded to the bolt that bolts my driver seat into place.i have another 8g wire going from my 12v to my battery positive terminal. Using 16g speaker wire. When I had my sub and Amp all hooked up the first attempt, my sub would barely hit or flex like it's supposed to. I recheced my wires and noticed my 12v connection to my Amp wasn't entirely secure, when I wiggled the power cable my Amp would lose and regain power so I rescrewed that cable in and now it seems I have a better connection, my sub hits a bit harder now but still not to the extent that it should. With my sub sounding a bit better I turn the volume up on my kenwood KDC MP 238 (maxes volume at 35, 50x4 peak so I'd assume 20-25rms per channel. At about 20+ the stock door speakers in my 94 ford explorer sound TERRIBLE. they don't sound blown but rather just dirty and distorted. I notice with my Amp and sub unhooked they said a tad bit better at higher volumes but not much. So, I thought I'd replae my door speakers the only fit being a5 by 7 or a 6 by 9 . I looked on Amazon and found a cheap 5 by 7 but its rated at over a hundred RMS wats . With my Kenwood head unit powering my door speakers I figured it would do the same as my stock speakers and would just underdrive them causing distortion from clipping. Sub rated at 150watts rms @ohms. Amp rated 125x1 @4ohms. What do I need to do to get the sub hitting like it should and to fix my distortion problem in my door speakers If I need anymore info or pictures I will provide them [/QUOTE]
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