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Car Audio Equipment
Speakers
6.5" Comps, minimal power consumption--factory wire?
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<blockquote data-quote="Notwerk" data-source="post: 2406079" data-attributes="member: 553427"><p>Any components will run perfectly fine off of 50-75 watts (unless your aim is to deafen the guy in the car next to you). Remember that a speaker that is rated at 90db of sensitivity will produce 90db with ONE watt at ONE meter. In a nearfield environment like a car, that's plenty loud. Evertime you double that power, you're looking at another 3db. So, the difference between 50 watts and 100 is 3db, not really a world of difference. It's far more important to install well and properly set the gains than throw a bunch of power at a speaker, which may shorten the lifespan of the driver, anyway. Driver selection and install are far more important than power. After 50 watts, everything is gravy (unless you're building an SPL system or something crazy like that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif)</p><p></p><p>And yes, you can probably run that much power into the factory wire. But the caveat is that it isn't optimal. You're going to lose some of that power because of the increased resistance from the thinner wire. Of course, over a short run, from the dash to the door, it's a pretty negligible difference. People in the car audio world make WAY too much of a big deal about the gauge of speaker wire. With power wire, it's important. Speaker wire? Not so much.</p><p></p><p>Also, if you go that route, you'd have to place the passive crossover inside the door. Nothing wrong with that, but take care to put the crossover in a safe place where they won't be damaged or get wet.</p><p></p><p>Congrats on the new car. I had my eye on a 3 hatch, but I'm holding off (maybe saving for a Miata //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Notwerk, post: 2406079, member: 553427"] Any components will run perfectly fine off of 50-75 watts (unless your aim is to deafen the guy in the car next to you). Remember that a speaker that is rated at 90db of sensitivity will produce 90db with ONE watt at ONE meter. In a nearfield environment like a car, that's plenty loud. Evertime you double that power, you're looking at another 3db. So, the difference between 50 watts and 100 is 3db, not really a world of difference. It's far more important to install well and properly set the gains than throw a bunch of power at a speaker, which may shorten the lifespan of the driver, anyway. Driver selection and install are far more important than power. After 50 watts, everything is gravy (unless you're building an SPL system or something crazy like that [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG]) And yes, you can probably run that much power into the factory wire. But the caveat is that it isn't optimal. You're going to lose some of that power because of the increased resistance from the thinner wire. Of course, over a short run, from the dash to the door, it's a pretty negligible difference. People in the car audio world make WAY too much of a big deal about the gauge of speaker wire. With power wire, it's important. Speaker wire? Not so much. Also, if you go that route, you'd have to place the passive crossover inside the door. Nothing wrong with that, but take care to put the crossover in a safe place where they won't be damaged or get wet. Congrats on the new car. I had my eye on a 3 hatch, but I'm holding off (maybe saving for a Miata [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG]) [/QUOTE]
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6.5" Comps, minimal power consumption--factory wire?
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