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4ohm or 2ohm setup?? HELP!
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<blockquote data-quote="Prowler573" data-source="post: 3114345" data-attributes="member: 561023"><p>Don't bother, Colt.</p><p></p><p>I got this...</p><p></p><p>//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wave.gif.002382ce7d7c19757ab945cc69819de1.gif</p><p></p><p>Welcome to the forum. Hopefully your time here will be well spent.</p><p></p><p>For starters let's take a closer look at the specs for your amplifier. A good rule of thumb to follow in car audio regarding amplifiers, whether they be outboard units or the internal amp found in most headunits, is that Peak or Max wattage ratings are inconsequential and immaterial data. You can ignore them completely and never suffer for it. In no way are they truly representative of any given amp's real-world usage potential and consequently are good for absolutely nothing excepting marketing purposes.</p><p></p><p>That was a very long-winded way of saying RMS output stats are where it's at and the only figures that bear paying any attention to. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif</p><p></p><p>Having explained that we find that your amp is RMS-rated for 65w per channel @ 4 Ohms and 100w per channel @ 2 Ohms.</p><p></p><p>As pretty much every multichannel, 2 Ohm-stable amp there is will run bridged we can further assume that your amp is, in fact, bridgeable and that's the configuration you'll want to use with the prefab, preloaded enclosure you're wanting to buy.</p><p></p><p>"Bridging" is a term meaning taking 2 output channels of an amp and combining them into a single, more powerful output. It is common practice for 2-channel amps to be bridged into single-channel amps and for 4-channel amps to get bridged into 2 more powerful channels.</p><p></p><p>For <em>almost</em> all bridgeable amps the method of doing so is to connect the positive input on whatever is being powered to the left positive speaker output on the amp.</p><p></p><p>The negative input on whatever is being amped connects to the right negative speaker output from the amp.</p><p></p><p>This is true for "almost" all bridgeable amps. Some do differ so if you have the hardcopy of your amp's owner's/installation manual or can access it on the manufacturer's website then I suggest consulting it before making any hard connections.</p><p></p><p> Since your amp is most likely only able to run in bridged configuration properly when presented with a 4 Ohm or higher resistance you're going to want to get the 4 Ohm version. Since that specific enclosure only has the single input you'll basically <em>have</em> to run your amp bridged and the 2 Ohm version of that box would make unhappy things happen to your amp.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Prowler573, post: 3114345, member: 561023"] Don't bother, Colt. I got this... [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wave.gif.002382ce7d7c19757ab945cc69819de1.gif[/IMG] Welcome to the forum. Hopefully your time here will be well spent. For starters let's take a closer look at the specs for your amplifier. A good rule of thumb to follow in car audio regarding amplifiers, whether they be outboard units or the internal amp found in most headunits, is that Peak or Max wattage ratings are inconsequential and immaterial data. You can ignore them completely and never suffer for it. In no way are they truly representative of any given amp's real-world usage potential and consequently are good for absolutely nothing excepting marketing purposes. That was a very long-winded way of saying RMS output stats are where it's at and the only figures that bear paying any attention to. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] Having explained that we find that your amp is RMS-rated for 65w per channel @ 4 Ohms and 100w per channel @ 2 Ohms. As pretty much every multichannel, 2 Ohm-stable amp there is will run bridged we can further assume that your amp is, in fact, bridgeable and that's the configuration you'll want to use with the prefab, preloaded enclosure you're wanting to buy. "Bridging" is a term meaning taking 2 output channels of an amp and combining them into a single, more powerful output. It is common practice for 2-channel amps to be bridged into single-channel amps and for 4-channel amps to get bridged into 2 more powerful channels. For [I]almost[/I] all bridgeable amps the method of doing so is to connect the positive input on whatever is being powered to the left positive speaker output on the amp. The negative input on whatever is being amped connects to the right negative speaker output from the amp. This is true for "almost" all bridgeable amps. Some do differ so if you have the hardcopy of your amp's owner's/installation manual or can access it on the manufacturer's website then I suggest consulting it before making any hard connections. Since your amp is most likely only able to run in bridged configuration properly when presented with a 4 Ohm or higher resistance you're going to want to get the 4 Ohm version. Since that specific enclosure only has the single input you'll basically [I]have[/I] to run your amp bridged and the 2 Ohm version of that box would make unhappy things happen to your amp. [/QUOTE]
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4ohm or 2ohm setup?? HELP!
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