Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Speakers
3-Way Component Front Stage - Recomendations?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Why So Cereal?" data-source="post: 7741639" data-attributes="member: 626047"><p>The "gap" your are noticing between the the sub and components can be due to a few things from improper acoustic phase to bad crossover points. This is not something a 3 way front will fix on its own.</p><p></p><p>The reason you hear missing midbass from aftermarket comps is that the factory seals need to be recreated for proper midbass. You simply will not get good midbass without a properly treated door. You want to deaden the door panel, provide the speaker with a solid baffle, seal up the gaping holes in the door frame with something solid like sheet metal or wood treated with Mass Loaded Vinyl and Closed Cell Foam to keep the backwave of the speaker from causing cancellation which thus results in weak midbass performance.</p><p></p><p>Theoretcally, yes a 3 way, having the ability to use a smaller midrange driver would be better for off axis response since beaming won't occur at such a low frequency; but, as I'm sure u know...adding extra drivers creates its own issues such as phasing, which leads to cancellation. Whenever you do a 3 way front stage, aiming is crucial. You can't simply choose spots that the drivers fit and have it work out perfectly. The reason a lot of ppl do a 2 way front over a 3 way one is the relative ease of the 2 way. In a 2 way, you just worry about the midbass/midrange and tweeter. In a 3 way, you need proper aiming and phasing of the midbass, midrange and tweeter and when something is not right it will be noticeable. A good 3 way front takes time and even some skilled ppl n the audio world have gone back to 2 ways after they realized that after the work it took to get a truly good 3 way front stage, they could've spent the extra time and money in a 2 way front that would easily rival it. Its all in the install bro.</p><p></p><p>If I were you, I'd save the cash you would spend on a budget 3 way and get an even better 2 way front or look into running active crossovers if u like...</p><p></p><p>just my 2 pennies lol</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Why So Cereal?, post: 7741639, member: 626047"] The "gap" your are noticing between the the sub and components can be due to a few things from improper acoustic phase to bad crossover points. This is not something a 3 way front will fix on its own. The reason you hear missing midbass from aftermarket comps is that the factory seals need to be recreated for proper midbass. You simply will not get good midbass without a properly treated door. You want to deaden the door panel, provide the speaker with a solid baffle, seal up the gaping holes in the door frame with something solid like sheet metal or wood treated with Mass Loaded Vinyl and Closed Cell Foam to keep the backwave of the speaker from causing cancellation which thus results in weak midbass performance. Theoretcally, yes a 3 way, having the ability to use a smaller midrange driver would be better for off axis response since beaming won't occur at such a low frequency; but, as I'm sure u know...adding extra drivers creates its own issues such as phasing, which leads to cancellation. Whenever you do a 3 way front stage, aiming is crucial. You can't simply choose spots that the drivers fit and have it work out perfectly. The reason a lot of ppl do a 2 way front over a 3 way one is the relative ease of the 2 way. In a 2 way, you just worry about the midbass/midrange and tweeter. In a 3 way, you need proper aiming and phasing of the midbass, midrange and tweeter and when something is not right it will be noticeable. A good 3 way front takes time and even some skilled ppl n the audio world have gone back to 2 ways after they realized that after the work it took to get a truly good 3 way front stage, they could've spent the extra time and money in a 2 way front that would easily rival it. Its all in the install bro. If I were you, I'd save the cash you would spend on a budget 3 way and get an even better 2 way front or look into running active crossovers if u like... just my 2 pennies lol [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Speakers
3-Way Component Front Stage - Recomendations?
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list
