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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8849544" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>You are not wrong and I don't disagree. I never planned to write a book about it, but nothing I said is incorrect and I’m not going to argue the points to those (not you) that fail to see the merits. This is the third setup like this that I have done, it works just fine. What I didn't mention is that I’m completing a wooden (MDF) infrastructure build on the rear of the car over the entire rear area behind the seats, including the area where the original spare tire and Bose sub was. I'm doing risers and shelves for the multiple amps and caps and carpeting on everything to look nice and match the interior. The cables are run from the engine compartment, under the car and back up through the sheet metal (using heavy duty nylon grommets) and then through the false bottom I made. The build includes a sub encolsure across the width of the rear compartment, fitted behind the fastback angles seats which will house two Focal 13" 33v2 pollyglass subs in a 3.44 cubic foot, sealed and stuffed enclosure with 3 pounds of AcustiStuf. This "fabricated" area pretty much contains everything in the system so a sub, amps,cables, caps, 2nd battery, all the equipment. sort of an all in one rack!  Going to get pictures as some people think I bothered to invent this (again, not you) as it is way too hot (hovering around 100) right now, will continue the build in the fall). Doing this covers up a lot of the available "short" grounding points (and I didn’t feel like cutting a couple of big access points to seat bolt grounds or drilling for new ones given that the car is a unibody configuration) Having closed off access to a lot of metal that I might use, or just prefer not to use, was simply a choice which is more to the point, it is a choice. I was able to source the 2/0, high strand OFC cable , 25’ for $50 (closed outlet store, all high strand marine grade OFC wire) who only had the one 25' run or I would have purchased more at that price and re-sold! So, it wasn’t that much of stretch when already paying to have the power run from front to back. Anyhow, it’s just an option that works fine. Is this type of install for everyone? Certainly not. It is just as affective, yes (when done right and using extra large ground return cable). To suggest it isn’t (again, not you) is also a fallacy and speaks to peoples ignorance or lack of experience in this type of install. Not only have I consulted other Electrical Engineers, including both my brothers, but just for shitz and giggles, 2 (very reputable) car stereo installation shops (one of which helped me on another of my previous cars, and my sons car, doing the exact same thing). On simpler, lower powered setups, or even for this kind of power, I can see the merits of doing ones grounds the traditional, practical way, espcially when the car structure is all metal body to frame construciton. It’s just an option that I like. Much easier to insert cables into blocks and use an allen wrench to secure them as opposed to drilling, grinding and grounding 6 grounds of different gauge values to several points on a unibody chassis that may not facilitate the grounding well enough to begin with. This way you never have to worry about ground loops, you have 1 single ground point for everything, which electrically speaking, is Ideal in the audio world.</p></blockquote><p></p>

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