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2nd Battery
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8849452" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>What, you think that I’m just making this shiz up?</p><p></p><p>No, I said I ran breakers (when values allow) under the hood and fuses in the back, and yes, on both (+) and (-) connections. Just because it cost more to do and not everybody bothers, doesn’t mean it’s not a good idea. Some pople don't use rubber grommets either! Grounds can start fires on shorts and overheating just like your power line can. It also protects your electrical system from possible elctical issue/feedback from your audio system and vice versus. Is it optional, yes, it's a matter of choice.</p><p></p><p>You’re incorrect on every point you have made and this is not a matter of opinion, math and the periodic tables don't lie. A ground that runs all the way back and passes the battery on the way is not different than it being grounded at the chassis, none, nil, nada. It’s not going to a battery, it, essentially passes the terminal and grounds along WITH the battery as it flows/ passes to the engine/chassis, get a grip, this is basic electric 101! Doing the big three in a big way, also increases the effectivness of all the electrical under the hood, reduces resistance making it fully capable of handeling the additnal flow from the 2/0 cable from the rear. Your understanding of car body (moer specfically, unibody) assembly also leaves something to be desired. Nothing about the method I described (and use) or any of the information provided is incorrect or any less effective than any other method when done correctly. It IS more expensive, it IS more work, it’s just the way I prefer to do it and believe it or not, it’s a much more cohesive, failsafe installation method!!</p><p></p><p>The reason that I use 1/0 to and 2/0 back is to ensure that the resistance is, in fact, the same or lower as it would be on a short local ground, I’ve done the measurements, IT WORKS! YouTube it, plenty of information out there, you don’t have to take my word for it even if I do know what the hell I’m talking about! just because there is a length of wire running from front to back does not mean that it changes things as if you had everything mounted under the hood connected directly to the electical system and ground! It’s just an extension of where everything connects to the electrical system under the hood!!!</p><p></p><p>A few hundred extra dollars in parts is cheaper than a car up in smoke, both methods work, neither is the the one "Right" way and in the end, it's my friggin car!!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8849452, member: 689267"] What, you think that I’m just making this shiz up? No, I said I ran breakers (when values allow) under the hood and fuses in the back, and yes, on both (+) and (-) connections. Just because it cost more to do and not everybody bothers, doesn’t mean it’s not a good idea. Some pople don't use rubber grommets either! Grounds can start fires on shorts and overheating just like your power line can. It also protects your electrical system from possible elctical issue/feedback from your audio system and vice versus. Is it optional, yes, it's a matter of choice. You’re incorrect on every point you have made and this is not a matter of opinion, math and the periodic tables don't lie. A ground that runs all the way back and passes the battery on the way is not different than it being grounded at the chassis, none, nil, nada. It’s not going to a battery, it, essentially passes the terminal and grounds along WITH the battery as it flows/ passes to the engine/chassis, get a grip, this is basic electric 101! Doing the big three in a big way, also increases the effectivness of all the electrical under the hood, reduces resistance making it fully capable of handeling the additnal flow from the 2/0 cable from the rear. Your understanding of car body (moer specfically, unibody) assembly also leaves something to be desired. Nothing about the method I described (and use) or any of the information provided is incorrect or any less effective than any other method when done correctly. It IS more expensive, it IS more work, it’s just the way I prefer to do it and believe it or not, it’s a much more cohesive, failsafe installation method!! The reason that I use 1/0 to and 2/0 back is to ensure that the resistance is, in fact, the same or lower as it would be on a short local ground, I’ve done the measurements, IT WORKS! YouTube it, plenty of information out there, you don’t have to take my word for it even if I do know what the hell I’m talking about! just because there is a length of wire running from front to back does not mean that it changes things as if you had everything mounted under the hood connected directly to the electical system and ground! It’s just an extension of where everything connects to the electrical system under the hood!!! A few hundred extra dollars in parts is cheaper than a car up in smoke, both methods work, neither is the the one "Right" way and in the end, it's my friggin car!!! [/QUOTE]
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