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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8849429" data-attributes="member: 689267">Unless it is a simple, lets say 500 watt install where I’m only running 1 or 2 grounds, I run power and ground front to back. I don’t chassis ground anymore, well not on unibody cars anyway. I always double the size of the return (ground) run. Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 2.5T (unibody), I run 1/0 gauge OFC copper to 2nd battery in the back for power and 2/0 gauge OFC wire back to the front for ground and use breakers/fuses (breakers under the hood when I can) and fuses prior to the 2nd battery equal to the ones under the hood and fuse distro blocks or individual inline fuses, either or running to the amps after the battery. That affords me power and ground in one place back where all the amps, battery and caps are.. Mazda build has (4) 4AWG grounds and (2) 1/0 AWG grounds, (6 fairly big grounds) for (2) Focal FPS2300’s and a single DS18 EXL-P2500X1D, the extra three are for (2) T-spec 3 farad caps, 1 each of the Focal amps, a stinger 5 farad hybrid cap for the DS18). Granted, the T-spec caps are most likely not needed but they do look cool! I know everyone has an opinion on this type of grounding configuration but I’ve never had any ground (or ground loop or lack of ground/power) issue since I started doing it this way. I believe in the “overbuilt is better” philosophy! Also, twisted pair RCA’s and speaker wire work better and are much easier than using foil ever wrapping anything in foil.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8849429, member: 689267"] Unless it is a simple, lets say 500 watt install where I’m only running 1 or 2 grounds, I run power and ground front to back. I don’t chassis ground anymore, well not on unibody cars anyway. I always double the size of the return (ground) run. Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 2.5T (unibody), I run 1/0 gauge OFC copper to 2nd battery in the back for power and 2/0 gauge OFC wire back to the front for ground and use breakers/fuses (breakers under the hood when I can) and fuses prior to the 2nd battery equal to the ones under the hood and fuse distro blocks or individual inline fuses, either or running to the amps after the battery. That affords me power and ground in one place back where all the amps, battery and caps are.. Mazda build has (4) 4AWG grounds and (2) 1/0 AWG grounds, (6 fairly big grounds) for (2) Focal FPS2300’s and a single [I]DS18 EXL[/I]-[I]P2500X1D, the extra three are for (2) T-spec 3 farad caps, 1 each of the Focal amps, a stinger 5 farad hybrid cap for the DS18).[/I] Granted, the T-spec caps are most likely not needed but they do look cool! I know everyone has an opinion on this type of grounding configuration but I’ve never had any ground (or ground loop or lack of ground/power) issue since I started doing it this way. I believe in the “overbuilt is better” philosophy! Also, twisted pair RCA’s and speaker wire work better and are much easier than using foil ever wrapping anything in foil. [/QUOTE]

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