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General Car Audio
2016 F350 crewcab stereo
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8660416" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>I like 6x8 for more cone area but what my brother and I ran into there was just not a lot of options in that size and no decent deals on the couple products that actually made something relatively nice in that size.</p><p></p><p>Where I stand on JL lineup is they're nice but premium priced and if you're not getting into their higher lines you can do better elsewhere. Even in their higher lines you can generally get the same performance/quality elsewhere at the price point but if you know/trust/like JL just stay out of their bottom shelf offerings and they shouldn't disappoint.</p><p></p><p>I will say that conventional wisdom does lean against putting mids and highs behind you. IMO your money is better spent buying better components to put up front and spending the left over time and money into some deadening/sealing of the front locations. Without proper sound deadening and preparation of mounting location (possibly including custom mounting for better aiming of the drivers) you'll never really achieve "audiophile" sound in a car even with 1200$ a set components and if you plan to just drop something in the stock locations you'll never really notice the "upgrade" into 600$+ per set components vs. something 150-250$ range. Now if you just want loud and clean really throwing just about any mid-tier product line from any of the reputable speaker brands in the stock holes will get you there. </p><p></p><p>I think there were a couple decent looking 6X8 easy fit components so if you want simplest, try your luck and report back. Same with the rears. IF you insist, you can probably go pretty cheap and keep them gained down anyway so as to not pull your sound stage back too badly so getting really spendy behind you is flat out crazy.</p><p></p><p>JL shallow sub looks very nice, though I haven't auditioned one myself and I believe there's a couple other brands that make shallow subs that should get you where you want to be. If you don't need make your lungs itch bass pretty much anything that you can put in a sealed box in your airspace will do about the same thing. </p><p></p><p>This is mostly assuming whatever solution you get to integrate into the factory system has solid EQ/processing capability (the good ones will). </p><p></p><p>As I recall my brother and I spent a LONG day doing the install in his 250. Running power from the batteries back, mounting and wiring amps, getting behind the head unit, doing the doors all eat up a lot more time than you think. I'm sure if you have done a dozen of them it might go pretty quick but for the casual back yard guy I'd plan 2 full days on that job. </p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8660416, member: 614752"] I like 6x8 for more cone area but what my brother and I ran into there was just not a lot of options in that size and no decent deals on the couple products that actually made something relatively nice in that size. Where I stand on JL lineup is they're nice but premium priced and if you're not getting into their higher lines you can do better elsewhere. Even in their higher lines you can generally get the same performance/quality elsewhere at the price point but if you know/trust/like JL just stay out of their bottom shelf offerings and they shouldn't disappoint. I will say that conventional wisdom does lean against putting mids and highs behind you. IMO your money is better spent buying better components to put up front and spending the left over time and money into some deadening/sealing of the front locations. Without proper sound deadening and preparation of mounting location (possibly including custom mounting for better aiming of the drivers) you'll never really achieve "audiophile" sound in a car even with 1200$ a set components and if you plan to just drop something in the stock locations you'll never really notice the "upgrade" into 600$+ per set components vs. something 150-250$ range. Now if you just want loud and clean really throwing just about any mid-tier product line from any of the reputable speaker brands in the stock holes will get you there. I think there were a couple decent looking 6X8 easy fit components so if you want simplest, try your luck and report back. Same with the rears. IF you insist, you can probably go pretty cheap and keep them gained down anyway so as to not pull your sound stage back too badly so getting really spendy behind you is flat out crazy. JL shallow sub looks very nice, though I haven't auditioned one myself and I believe there's a couple other brands that make shallow subs that should get you where you want to be. If you don't need make your lungs itch bass pretty much anything that you can put in a sealed box in your airspace will do about the same thing. This is mostly assuming whatever solution you get to integrate into the factory system has solid EQ/processing capability (the good ones will). As I recall my brother and I spent a LONG day doing the install in his 250. Running power from the batteries back, mounting and wiring amps, getting behind the head unit, doing the doors all eat up a lot more time than you think. I'm sure if you have done a dozen of them it might go pretty quick but for the casual back yard guy I'd plan 2 full days on that job. [/QUOTE]
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