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2011 Corolla new system questions
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8657575" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>Nothing you listed will work well in a corolla it has horrible sound acoustics. I've had one. The only thing that can possibly work is an active pioneer head unit (which you have, so make use of it) and a 2 way active front stage setup where you have complete crossover control between the midrange and tweeter. Speakers in that car tend to have a harsh sibilance peak thats only solvable through having proper control of the blend between mid and tweeter. Not going active will also have you feeling like you have an inadequate mediocre and never enough system. </p><p></p><p>I'd get a dedicated subwoofer amp and a 4 channel with a lot more power if you want actual clarity and minimal distortion. Why a lot of power? Because getting strong midbass in that car is virtually impossible without massive amounts of work. More power also prevents clipping and distortion from an over driven amp.. You also want deadening along with some sheet metal to turn the car door into a proper speaker enclosure. Btw amp i'd say to get is pioneer gm 8604 for a 4 channel. sub amp <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/bigblank69/videos" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/user/bigblank69/videos</a> Any of the under 100 dollar options is fine.</p><p></p><p>I'd also try to custom fit an 8 inch midbass or 10 if possible because the lack of midbass in that car is very real. If not then just put a lot of power to a quality 6.5 midrange I'd recommend some silverflute 6.5s <a href="https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/" target="_blank">https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/</a> (sold individually) and these alpine type X <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/pair-alpine-HIEND-28MM-dome-car-tweeter-4ohm-50W-vifa-XT25-PK-scanspeak-seas-/222186264721" target="_blank">https://www.ebay.com/itm/pair-alpine-HIEND-28MM-dome-car-tweeter-4ohm-50W-vifa-XT25-PK-scanspeak-seas-/222186264721</a> These drivers are 10x better than the JBLs in terms of performance and build quality.</p><p></p><p>Those JBLS you listed will sound like tier 1 garbage in comparison to a properly done active setup. For the rear speakers, leave them stock on head unit power, you really dont want to spend any kind of money, power or focus on the rear speakers as they just destroy the overall sound quality, mainly the soundstage. </p><p></p><p>TLDR: Stop looking at sonicelectronix sh*t. buy the tweeters, buy the mids, only do a proper setup up front, fk the rears, focus all power up front, use the network mode of the head unit = massive profit.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8657575, member: 650438"] Nothing you listed will work well in a corolla it has horrible sound acoustics. I've had one. The only thing that can possibly work is an active pioneer head unit (which you have, so make use of it) and a 2 way active front stage setup where you have complete crossover control between the midrange and tweeter. Speakers in that car tend to have a harsh sibilance peak thats only solvable through having proper control of the blend between mid and tweeter. Not going active will also have you feeling like you have an inadequate mediocre and never enough system. I'd get a dedicated subwoofer amp and a 4 channel with a lot more power if you want actual clarity and minimal distortion. Why a lot of power? Because getting strong midbass in that car is virtually impossible without massive amounts of work. More power also prevents clipping and distortion from an over driven amp.. You also want deadening along with some sheet metal to turn the car door into a proper speaker enclosure. Btw amp i'd say to get is pioneer gm 8604 for a 4 channel. sub amp [URL="https://www.youtube.com/user/bigblank69/videos"]https://www.youtube.com/user/bigblank69/videos[/URL] Any of the under 100 dollar options is fine. I'd also try to custom fit an 8 inch midbass or 10 if possible because the lack of midbass in that car is very real. If not then just put a lot of power to a quality 6.5 midrange I'd recommend some silverflute 6.5s [URL="https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/"]https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/[/URL] (sold individually) and these alpine type X [URL="https://www.ebay.com/itm/pair-alpine-HIEND-28MM-dome-car-tweeter-4ohm-50W-vifa-XT25-PK-scanspeak-seas-/222186264721"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/pair-alpine-HIEND-28MM-dome-car-tweeter-4ohm-50W-vifa-XT25-PK-scanspeak-seas-/222186264721[/URL] These drivers are 10x better than the JBLs in terms of performance and build quality. Those JBLS you listed will sound like tier 1 garbage in comparison to a properly done active setup. For the rear speakers, leave them stock on head unit power, you really dont want to spend any kind of money, power or focus on the rear speakers as they just destroy the overall sound quality, mainly the soundstage. TLDR: Stop looking at sonicelectronix sh*t. buy the tweeters, buy the mids, only do a proper setup up front, fk the rears, focus all power up front, use the network mode of the head unit = massive profit. [/QUOTE]
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