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2005 Ford Focus ZX4 Glove box subwoofer complete. 4/27/2024
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<blockquote data-quote="just call me KeV" data-source="post: 8803992" data-attributes="member: 656095"><p>We're around a day-ish out from finishing the rear doors and thank god. It has taken quite a long time. I'm not even sure measured in hours. I have a few more photos to share to get you guys caught up. </p><p> Here is a shot of both of the inner baffle pieces I am using for the door mounted midbass after the first sanding. Notice how they aren't symmetrical. I made the baffle a little bigger for the rear passenger door. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]41439[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>A little quick fitment before I added the second coat of filler. I hit both the front and the rear of both. See there was a little filler ouside the lines but it came right off of the deadener. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41440[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Another layer of reinforced filler was added. I added a bit more in the third layer but I didn't take as many pictures this time. You guys get the idea. I sanded them to 120 grit in case anyone is curious smoothing the edge profile and the front and rear face. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41441[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p> My original plan was to hit them with resin and chop matte but with both the deadener, aluminum tape, and neoprene I really didn't feel like it was necessary. We'll pull the door cards in a couple months to see how they fair. This a single layer of deadener by the by. On the rear of the panels I used a layer of neoprene which is pretty hydrophobic anyway. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41442[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p> I added a few pieces of aluminum tape which you can see in the background. When there was a single midbass in the door I used butyl rope and non hardening modeling clay and it made a proper mess, let me tell you. The cable hanging is for the window/lock switches. I will tape (aluminum) it after I wrap in some neoprene or tesa tape so it isn't in there making racket. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41443[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p> Aaahhhh. One of the more satisfying shots I have taken in the build. I ended up using seven self tappers which turned out to be more than enough. I could rock the whole car when I pulled on this little bugger.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41444[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p> We're still not done yet though.. You can see from the following shots that I have removed some more material from the door cards themselves. This was for a couple reasons. With the added inner baffle I had fitment issues which required some material to be removed. There was also the matter of having a free path between the inner and outer baffles that is unobstructed.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41445[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Go Michigan state!</p><p> This is how I will manage the transition between the two baffles. Once I wrap the baffle and secure it to the door card I can cut the craft sticks to size and glue them to bridge the gap. Once dry I can use reinforced filler to make the transition more solid. Then I can begin to think of a seal. I think I will just use some rope caulk. This seems to be the easiest. It won't be 100% leak proof but I don't give a cats' pajamas about that. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41446[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p> I need to finish the other door getting it to this stage then fabricating the aforementioned transition. Then I will run some wiring through the factory grommets. Each speaker will have it's own amplification and signal processing. I will mirror the values when we get that far. </p><p> Tomorrow should be another good fab day (possible rain) but this weekend I am heading to a steampunk/renaissance fair so I won't be working on the car. So it might be monday before I post anything, tomorrow not withstanding. </p><p></p><p>Kev</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="just call me KeV, post: 8803992, member: 656095"] We're around a day-ish out from finishing the rear doors and thank god. It has taken quite a long time. I'm not even sure measured in hours. I have a few more photos to share to get you guys caught up. Here is a shot of both of the inner baffle pieces I am using for the door mounted midbass after the first sanding. Notice how they aren't symmetrical. I made the baffle a little bigger for the rear passenger door. [ATTACH type="full"]41439[/ATTACH] A little quick fitment before I added the second coat of filler. I hit both the front and the rear of both. See there was a little filler ouside the lines but it came right off of the deadener. [ATTACH type="full"]41440[/ATTACH] Another layer of reinforced filler was added. I added a bit more in the third layer but I didn't take as many pictures this time. You guys get the idea. I sanded them to 120 grit in case anyone is curious smoothing the edge profile and the front and rear face. [ATTACH type="full"]41441[/ATTACH] My original plan was to hit them with resin and chop matte but with both the deadener, aluminum tape, and neoprene I really didn't feel like it was necessary. We'll pull the door cards in a couple months to see how they fair. This a single layer of deadener by the by. On the rear of the panels I used a layer of neoprene which is pretty hydrophobic anyway. [ATTACH type="full"]41442[/ATTACH] I added a few pieces of aluminum tape which you can see in the background. When there was a single midbass in the door I used butyl rope and non hardening modeling clay and it made a proper mess, let me tell you. The cable hanging is for the window/lock switches. I will tape (aluminum) it after I wrap in some neoprene or tesa tape so it isn't in there making racket. [ATTACH type="full"]41443[/ATTACH] Aaahhhh. One of the more satisfying shots I have taken in the build. I ended up using seven self tappers which turned out to be more than enough. I could rock the whole car when I pulled on this little bugger. [ATTACH type="full"]41444[/ATTACH] We're still not done yet though.. You can see from the following shots that I have removed some more material from the door cards themselves. This was for a couple reasons. With the added inner baffle I had fitment issues which required some material to be removed. There was also the matter of having a free path between the inner and outer baffles that is unobstructed. [ATTACH type="full"]41445[/ATTACH] Go Michigan state! This is how I will manage the transition between the two baffles. Once I wrap the baffle and secure it to the door card I can cut the craft sticks to size and glue them to bridge the gap. Once dry I can use reinforced filler to make the transition more solid. Then I can begin to think of a seal. I think I will just use some rope caulk. This seems to be the easiest. It won't be 100% leak proof but I don't give a cats' pajamas about that. [ATTACH type="full"]41446[/ATTACH] I need to finish the other door getting it to this stage then fabricating the aforementioned transition. Then I will run some wiring through the factory grommets. Each speaker will have it's own amplification and signal processing. I will mirror the values when we get that far. Tomorrow should be another good fab day (possible rain) but this weekend I am heading to a steampunk/renaissance fair so I won't be working on the car. So it might be monday before I post anything, tomorrow not withstanding. Kev [/QUOTE]
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2005 Ford Focus ZX4 Glove box subwoofer complete. 4/27/2024
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