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2004 Ram 2500 SQ Build
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<blockquote data-quote="djdilliodon!" data-source="post: 8866077" data-attributes="member: 684299"><p>Answers to your questions.</p><p></p><p>1. All options are for front only. </p><p></p><p>2. That is correct but the absence of a passive xover. The speakers will still require an active xover. Pros to this is you can set the frequencies to whatever you want electronically compared to pre set frequencies like a passive. It allows a lot more tuning flexibility. Some of the CDT passives allow many tuning options. </p><p></p><p>3. IB stands for infinite baffle, meaning no enclosure to put it in simple terms. </p><p></p><p>4. Since you will watch movies, you would want to use the cdt ES-6ex1 coaxials in the rear. This is basically the es-6cv with the “bullet” unthreaded and a pole that is threaded to a tweeter and threaded to the midbass driver. This isn’t a cheap made coax, they are using the same parts from their component sets and making them into a coax setup for ease of install. Tweeter protrusion is only about 1/4” so it’s really not an issue to get them to fit behind majority of door panels. When not watching movies or not having passengers, you can always gain them down and enjoy the front stage to the fullest. </p><p></p><p>As far as power goes, we are living in a time that power is dirt cheap! The days of paying $1 or more per watt are only for those who must have the best. I use to be one of those running old school Us amps, pg ms1000, and PPI art series. At one time I even went down the road of tube amplifiers running a us amps model. You can take one of the oldest tricks out of the sq play book and easily run 250 or more watts per channel and gain it down keeping the power super clean and amp not working much at all. The best part is it won’t even cost much to do this! You can even do this for the sub amp as well. The key here is if you are running an active setup, it doesn’t matter what the onboard Xovers are on the amp but if you will rely on them, you want to at least get something with decent ones. For example, taramps makes some very powerful amplifiers that would easily do the job but if good quality Xovers are needed they won’t be a good choice. What to go with will depend on budget, foot print size, if you will go passive or active, and maybe even looks (color preference you may have for example).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="djdilliodon!, post: 8866077, member: 684299"] Answers to your questions. 1. All options are for front only. 2. That is correct but the absence of a passive xover. The speakers will still require an active xover. Pros to this is you can set the frequencies to whatever you want electronically compared to pre set frequencies like a passive. It allows a lot more tuning flexibility. Some of the CDT passives allow many tuning options. 3. IB stands for infinite baffle, meaning no enclosure to put it in simple terms. 4. Since you will watch movies, you would want to use the cdt ES-6ex1 coaxials in the rear. This is basically the es-6cv with the “bullet” unthreaded and a pole that is threaded to a tweeter and threaded to the midbass driver. This isn’t a cheap made coax, they are using the same parts from their component sets and making them into a coax setup for ease of install. Tweeter protrusion is only about 1/4” so it’s really not an issue to get them to fit behind majority of door panels. When not watching movies or not having passengers, you can always gain them down and enjoy the front stage to the fullest. As far as power goes, we are living in a time that power is dirt cheap! The days of paying $1 or more per watt are only for those who must have the best. I use to be one of those running old school Us amps, pg ms1000, and PPI art series. At one time I even went down the road of tube amplifiers running a us amps model. You can take one of the oldest tricks out of the sq play book and easily run 250 or more watts per channel and gain it down keeping the power super clean and amp not working much at all. The best part is it won’t even cost much to do this! You can even do this for the sub amp as well. The key here is if you are running an active setup, it doesn’t matter what the onboard Xovers are on the amp but if you will rely on them, you want to at least get something with decent ones. For example, taramps makes some very powerful amplifiers that would easily do the job but if good quality Xovers are needed they won’t be a good choice. What to go with will depend on budget, foot print size, if you will go passive or active, and maybe even looks (color preference you may have for example). [/QUOTE]
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