Reply to thread

Message

<blockquote data-quote="TrillGates2k6" data-source="post: 8244776" data-attributes="member: 660335"><p>So I&#039;m not really a novice at this, however it&#039;s been a while since I&#039;ve built a system this big.&nbsp; I&#039;ll start at the beginning.&nbsp; I have a 1999 Honda Accord 3.0 V6.&nbsp; It has a stock 105 AMP Alternator.&nbsp; Regular old Battery from Wal-Mart.&nbsp; Here&#039;s the plan, I&#039;m gonna be running a continuous load of about 4,000 Watts RMS with all of my amps.&nbsp; I have about 5 of them.&nbsp; I plan on upgrading to a 240 AMP Alternator (It&#039;s the biggest, most efficient one they make for my car);&nbsp; Of course I&#039;ll be upgrading all of the grounds and alternator wires to 0 Gauge where I can and 4 Gauge where I cannot.&nbsp; All of the main power/ground wires will be 0 Gauge where possible and 4 Gauge otherwise.&nbsp; I am also buying (2) 120 Amp Hour Shuriken BT-120&#039;s that will be connected in parallel for a total of 240 Amp Hours coming from the trunk;&nbsp; Here&#039;s where things get a tad bit sketchy.&nbsp; I&#039;ve seen a lot of people saying that they don&#039;t run battery isolators and some saying they do.&nbsp; If I understand this correctly, people who do &quot;NOT&quot; run their audio system with their engine &quot;OFF&quot; can omit the battery isolator and people who &quot;DO&quot; run their system with the engine &quot;OFF&quot; need the battery isolator.&nbsp; I just wanted to clarify that.&nbsp; 2nd question is, if I added a 20 Farad Capacitor to all of this, would it help any?&nbsp; Hinder?&nbsp; or would it do nothing at all?&nbsp; Maybe I&#039;m over thinking this, but I&#039;m just trying to cover all my bases before I start ordering stuff.</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="TrillGates2k6, post: 8244776, member: 660335"] So I'm not really a novice at this, however it's been a while since I've built a system this big. I'll start at the beginning. I have a 1999 Honda Accord 3.0 V6. It has a stock 105 AMP Alternator. Regular old Battery from Wal-Mart. Here's the plan, I'm gonna be running a continuous load of about 4,000 Watts RMS with all of my amps. I have about 5 of them. I plan on upgrading to a 240 AMP Alternator (It's the biggest, most efficient one they make for my car); Of course I'll be upgrading all of the grounds and alternator wires to 0 Gauge where I can and 4 Gauge where I cannot. All of the main power/ground wires will be 0 Gauge where possible and 4 Gauge otherwise. I am also buying (2) 120 Amp Hour Shuriken BT-120's that will be connected in parallel for a total of 240 Amp Hours coming from the trunk; Here's where things get a tad bit sketchy. I've seen a lot of people saying that they don't run battery isolators and some saying they do. If I understand this correctly, people who do "NOT" run their audio system with their engine "OFF" can omit the battery isolator and people who "DO" run their system with the engine "OFF" need the battery isolator. I just wanted to clarify that. 2nd question is, if I added a 20 Farad Capacitor to all of this, would it help any? Hinder? or would it do nothing at all? Maybe I'm over thinking this, but I'm just trying to cover all my bases before I start ordering stuff. [/QUOTE]

Verification