Recent content by thevolunator

Yeah, Kind of what I was thinking...Just hard to not have a car to drive to work though. lol And, that's why I'm thinking they are saying "between $600 to $800" because they can't tell me exactly how long it'll take to do (get right) especially with the port.

The other issue (and why I haven't had it done yet) is they said that they would have to have my car for at least three days to do it. "to make sure the fiberglass sets and is formed correctly"

What do you think that an enclosure like that SHOULD cost then...I know it's probably a lot more difficult to build as opposed to a standard basic box.

Yeah, they did say that there wold only be around $150 in material....The issue is forming it into the side panel and figuring out how to do the port with that little of space to work with. I'm wanting a design similar to this...Only I want it ported...

Yeah, I had heard about that...That would be a nightmare to tune. (I would think)

Well, they're going to build it into the side of my back cargo area. (copying the steathbox design only ported) So it won't just be a box back there...) Said they would need my car for about four days to do it.

And the reason I asked about eBay...They have a set of Hertz MLK165's on there for $300

Well, thanks to you're and K_H_A's advise everything is sounding pretty nice right now. So, I can afford to wait for a minute or two. I'm just kind of stuck right now with all of the possibilities and what step to take next. I could spend $600 to $800 and get a custom ported enclosure built or I...

yeah, the guy here at the dealer said that it "could" work but that I would have to basically have one amp per voice coil...And, it would have to be set up perfectly with a dmm or I would kill the sub. Said the voltages would have to match exactly. And yes, most likely what you're saying is...

So, my next question would be...How dangerous would it be for me to buy another 700/5 amp bridge the main channels to my rear speakers and use BOTH amps to power my sub?? (giving it 600wrms) I could do this and have more power(headroom) for about half the price of the JL Audio HD900/5.. And...

So, I'm thinking that...If my vocals sound like they're coming out from under my mirror and I can't tell where my mid-bass drops off and my sub picks up. That I must have it tuned correctly, right?

Yeah, I'm starting to see what you guys are saying...I've been playing with the T/A the past couple days and I got it to the point that I don't even miss not having my rear fill. I think part of my issues with the thinness or lack of low end tone(and the "punchy-ness"" was that my parametric eq...

Didn't realize that phase alignment had anything to do with it...But, I do realize that I'm asking a lot out of my full range drivers. To me though..the best SQ rides that Ive ever heard didn't rely solely on the subs for that low end sound. I would like to get as much of that low end as...

I just want to hear the under tones of the bass...I want the same "definition" at the bottom of the range as get at the mid and high end of the range...

Ok...Great chart. I guess by that chart 60hz is still considered mid-bass/bottom... Guess, the word/sound I looking for (based on this chart) is "Rumble".