Recent content by Tannerman17

Okay I'll try that. The connections are so close together. It seems kind of silly really.

Ds18 loc, it was like 90$. And yeah that's why I went the LOC option. Newer car and harder to put in headunit and keep controls.

Or does that mean I need new rcas? Sorry I'm such a beginner

Damn, so that means the LOC is toast?

Everything was working fine until I think the positive and ground arc'd on the LOC. The loc still has power and so does my amp..but no sound to sub. The only fuses I have are big one from battery, and whatever is on the amp. The LOC is ds18 2CLC

Let me know, I thought I read online I could use the factory subwoofers power to turn on the LOC. But it's getting no power.

Okay so I did that. I spliced unto my factory subwoofer that is currently out putting 4-7 volts to the LOC and I'm getting nothing. Do I need to use both left and right side of the speaker inputs? Currently I just have one POS and one NEG hooked up

I bought the Ds18 2CLC. And for the life of me I can't wrap my head around how to wire this thing? Ground- go to existing ground 12v- tap into existing constant 12 Rem in- Rem out- Speaker R (+/-) tap into rear speaker?? Speaker L (+/-) tap into rear speaker?? What do I do with the remote in...

I literally just found the same problem I'm Having. Going toward just returning the amp and getting something else. https://www.caraudio.com/threads/gain-problems.600438/page-2 This guy had a crappy LOC, switched it out and still the same issue. Got a replacement amp and still had issues.

No I can buy one though. The guy I bought it off of showed me the independence with his. It was right at 1.1/1.2 And it's moving the sub. Just not without distortion. It can get "semi-loud" but it's distorting alot when it's cranked up on the amp. When I move the amp all the way down to non...

I'm truly not like savvy about car audio lol. But when I bought the sub. I checked the negative and positive connection on the subwoofer and it read like 1.2 ohm.

Sadly it's sold. I do have another sub but it's just a little like 300 rms kicker. That's kind of why I posted on here. I was worried it was a faulty amp? And wanted to return if that was the case. I also have a crunch 3000.1 amp that is surely over rated. and it moved the sub probably 70-75%...

What I don't get is my old w6 12 and that jl amp. I never tuned the amp and the box wasn't tuned and it literally hurt my ears when it was 3/4 volume, with the same line out converter. I expected this to be the same, but I feel like this skar amp is finicky?

I may try switching out that convertor to a more expensive one or trying to get an aftermarket player. My car is just new so it's hard.

Can get some later. But it just isn't moving the sub. The sub is facing toward the left side if you were looking at the back of the vehicle. It's approx 21x21x13