Recent content by Rotate

Yes, I could wire one sub for a 2 ohm load. As far as the marine amp, all the controls are under a sealed panel that you have to open up to make any adjustments, and all the terminals are covered up with thick rubber. Things like that to help keep moisture out.

Would coating it not make it primed to getting hot? Here is where they are mounted, size reference. I could turn it vertically on the surface the 1200.1 is mounted, but like I was saying, in a little leery of things being around it all the time, making it hot. With the 1200.1 being against the...

Hmmmmm I’m not opposed to that at all. My concerns are mostly the physical size of that amp. Technically it will fit in the compartment my amps are mounted in, but I’d have to turn it vertically. The issue with that is it will have things thrown in there that will come in contact with it. Not...

Not really. With the speakers being DVC 4 ohm subs, I get 1 ohm. I don’t have much else laying around.

This is inline with what the installer was hinting at. He didn’t come right out and say it, but he kind of danced around that this amp would not meet the demands of the subs. So, how I ended up with the amps, is a friend of mine has worked at Kicker for a long time as a salesman, and I got them...

I understand. But it did indeed pop a 100A fuse. Coincidentally, that happened about 5 minutes into the first trip after switching from standard marine deep cycle batteries, to the XS batteries.

I do not believe it’s hot. I can walk outside right now and at a specific volume, it’ll shut off. If I ran another ground, would it need to be another 4 gauge back to the battery? There’s really not much to ground to in a fiberglass bathtub.

And these are 120AH. The batteries should run the system, according to the battery manufacturer, and Kicker. I consulted both before buying. They told me to buy the XP1500 so I bought the 3000s. Lol

I’ll do my best to answer this. The 1200.1 has a 150A fuse, as recommended by kicker, and the 800.8 has a 100A. I’ll pull out my paperwork for the subs and should be able to figure out the ohm load that way? Kicker tech told me that low voltage cutoff is 10.8V, and yes, I do have a crappy...

The shop set the gain but I can open it up and take a look. I was seeing 11.2 at about the lowest on my cheap multimeter and they said shutoff is 10.8. That’s all I’ve got to go off, but it **** sure acts like low voltage cutoff. I do have a alternator, but it’s not necessarily “legal” to have...

Yessir. What weird is I’m getting good voltage out of the fuse and there is nothing between the fuse and the amp, except wire. No splices, or anything. That’s exactly what I can’t figure out.

Yes

About what? Are you talking about the alternator? Or why the battery doesn’t drop? He’s not right about the battery. Everything else, i surly don’t know but the batteries will without a doubt run both amps at high power for extended periods of time without dropping off. We are going to the lake...

So in that scenario the volts would stay at 12.4? They wouldn’t drop? Because again, in my mind, to hit the voltage cutoff of 10.8V, the power supply (is....the battery) would have to drop to somewhere near there. I guess I truly don’t understand how the amp is hitting voltage cutoff, it the...

I’m showing 0. Did it at the perko and fuse.