Recent content by paulmarsh1222

You don't have to spend a ton of money on rcas. That being said, you don't want the cheapest pair out there. As long as they have pretty good shielding you'll be fine. You'll never hear the difference between monoprice and stinger or any other expensive brand. You are however paying for quality...

Oh okay I see what you're saying. To be honest I've never seen one like that. So that one has a separate fuse for each wire going out? The one I saw that had a problem had one input, one large fuse and then 3 outputs. So all it had was one big fuse and not individual fuses like that block. If he...

What I'm saying is he has one big power wire coming into the block and then separating into 3 individual wires for each of his amps. Obviously the main wire going into the block is rated for 250 amps but say he gets an electrical surge and only 200 amps comes through. It won't kill that main...

Definitely your best option in this case. Always match your amp to your subs needs and you won't run into these problems.

I understand this. The fuse is to make sure the entire system doesn't pull more than 250 amps. I'm saying if 200 amps pass through it won't kill the power to the wires so if the wires are too small for that load they can compromise and catch fire. I've seen it happen before.

Also what dubstepper said is correct but remember this is at your own risk. You can either do the 2 ohm configuration like the diagram above or the .5 ohm. Most people won't recommend that option but it's up to you. You just have to be careful as not to fry the amp. When you post questions like...

It depends how big the wires coming off the block are. Even if you get an electrical overload surge and it's doesn't break your big 250 amp fuse, it can still overload the actual wire if it's too small and can't handle the amperage and you don't want that running through your car. I've seen it...

Definitely make your own kit. You'll save some money and you can get better quality than these kits. Some high end kits are nice but you also pay for them. I never go smaller than 2 gauge just in case you ever need to upgrade in the future. Also you cant go wrong with bigger power and ground...

I meant you don't have rcas coming from the headunit to the amp, just from the LOC to the amp. If you want turn the "gain" up all the way on your LOC and then slowly turn the gain up on the amp until you hear distortion.

Yes the LOC is your line out converter. You don't have rcas going to the amp correct?

The gain on a LOC isnt the same as the gain on an amp. The gain on the LOC is to adjust the output signal to best match up with the amp where the gain on an amp is to adjust the input signal from your head unit. The best way to set gains is with an osciliscope to make sure you're not clipping...

Okay so it sounds like you're wiring both of those subs in parallel which is producing a one ohm load because each sub is already switched to 2 Ohm so then combining them like you are at the amp brings it down to 1 ohm. The amp can only handle 4 ohms bridged or 2 ohms per separate channel...

I can't tell you fir sure what your overheating issue is yet without knowing for sure what your final ohm load is on the amp and what your gain is set at. Those are very important variables.

OK so on the sub, is the switch on 2 or 8? I assume each sub has its own divided chamber in the box. So then you have the two connectors on the outside of the box, one for each sub. Then you took one subs connectors and put it on one channel and wired the other sub to the second channel?