Recent content by motochrome

I meant that using the PUNCH 100W x 2 for the mids/highs in my truck now, that is currently using the RF PRIME R300-12 (300W RMS) for its powered subwoofer would be too much - meaning my highs/mids would overpower my sub at that point. That's what I meant to say. I realize I could keep the...

Sorry, I was just parroting the specs from them, "built-in amplifier (22 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels)". If you're saying they hyped up those ratings, I won't argue with you, but it seems about right, listening to it. My RF PUNCH goes both ways. It's rated at 100W x 2, but sounds WAY...

Thanks. I do have an old PUNCH amp, but it's overkill and would overpower my R300-12 sealed sub too. I just didn't feel like adding it after hearing the way it sounds now from just the 22W off the HU. I'll figure out another use for it, like possibly adding a system for my cargo/boondocking...

The replacement HU arrived yesterday and it's been great so far.

Definitely what Jepalan said then.

I think you can add pulsing lights to anything, although they might mess with your resistance, so be careful if they do. Just get a head unit with pre-outs and an amp and sub in a box, or a powered sub-in-a-box if you want it to be easy or if you have space constraints. Buy the best you can...

I think your doors are a "bass reflex design" A sealed enclosure for 6x9's always looks incredibly ghetto to me, but I'm sure they do wonders for improving the accuracy of the sound. Just make sure they're secured/bolted down or something, so they're not all over the place. I wouldn't worry...

What are those three lights that aren't coming on supposed to signify? Audio signal? Lights to highlight the amp's logo? Plug an ipod straight into the amps to make sure they're working properly. If they are, then plug the RCA's going into the amps into your battery powered boombox that has...

I used to plug my ipod straight into an amp's RCA's with a 3.5mm (1/8") to dual RCA cable and didn't have any head unit at all. It sounded great for many years. Lots of head units out there that skip the CD player, meant just for USB and Bluetooth or SD cards, but I don't know of any that skip...

Just make sure the total load of each channel is above its minimum rating. If your amp is rated for 2 ohms per channel, you'll be fine running a 2Ω load for the subs and a 4Ω load on another channel running the other frequencies. Oh, I see your original question put it the other way, yeah...

I just saw these little amps by JBL with LED displays and DSP that look interesting.

I wish I could hear 16k and above. You young whippersnappers don't know how good you got it, but these loud sound systems will soon take all that away - just sayin'.

Trying a different power source without disassembling my soldered/heat-shrunk harness could be done by smashing some leads into the chassis of the radio, driven by my 12V power supply. I'll try that, but I did verify proper voltages at their terminations in the truck. I'll go ahead and give it...

10-4, thanks for your input though.

"(Blaupunkt Toronto 420BT)!" The replacement is already on its way, so I won't have to re-wire any harnesses. If the replacement does the same thing, I'll look into Alpine HU's or similar. You're right, I guess if the speaker wires shorted or something, it could've blown the HU . . . I guess...