Recent content by K_Watson

I turned sound to front only for now. Toyota has one in stock for $180 But what brand / model to put in if running just the Entune headunit for now?

I just got a used 2012 Corolla S with the Entune touchscreen Bluetooth Nav system. I suspect one of the rear deck 6x9 speakers is blown. What speaker would be a good replacement if keeping the Entune system? I assume a speaker with low RMS requirements...

No, I did not or at least I did not intentionally connect the watch to the head unit, I will try them again tomorrow now that I have auto pairing turned off on the head unit.

I uninstalled Android wear, turned off the watch, and reset the car stereo, reconnected the phone, readjusted my sound, and everything is back to normal. I don't know if its the Watch or the Android software but something is not compatible with the Kenwood head unit. This stinks, I like the...

True, but Bluetooth allows for up to 7 connections at the same time, if I remember correctly.

I have a Kenwood KDC-BT758 Bluetooth headunit and an LG G2 smartphone that have been playing nice together for a year... until I bought a LG G watch. Now the headunit will fail to connect to the phone unless I manually connect them with the phone BT settings, which sometimes won't do it and I...

Looking for a recommendation for an decent and inexpensive (not Cheap junk) Mono class D amplifier for my wife's car, in the 250 to 300w RMS range at 4 Ohm. It will be pushing a Alpine SWE-10S4 10" 300W RMS rated 4 Ohm sub in small sealed box. Her current setup is: 2001 Toyota Camry XLE...

Wow, I haven't been here in forever! I still have the same car, a 1998 Prizm because it's reliable, cheap, and paid for... but my audio setup has changed a bit. I started in 2010 with the goal of a better than stock but discreet system. I had an old Aiwa headunit, 4 $30/pair Pioneer 2-ways...

That sounds good. Just don't blow them... you need them to sell later so you can afford better stuff.

Hi again... These guys know their stuff, but you have to remember this stuff is expensive. Build in stages. Start with the foundation... you know what I'm going to say... The Big 3. It is your foundation. Figure out what your goal is, wattage wise, and wire appropriately. For 400W-600W...

Something was not right... What wiring upgrades have you done besides the power wire to the amp? (Even if you have 0 gauge wire to the amp it's pointless unless the big 3 under your hood are not upgraded too.)

Assuming both the MTX and Kickers are paired with the proper amp to feed them their max power... The MTX's handle more power (400W RMS)... but they are smaller, older, and less efficient. The Kickers handle less power (300W RMS)... but they are larger, newer design, and more efficient. My...

I'll try to recreate what I posted this morning... Your amp and factory wires are the weak points of your current system. Your MTX sub box is pre-wired and the subs are 8 ohms each, capable of handling 200W RMS each. They are wired in parallel to give a 4 ohm final load. This means that the...

This morning, I replied with a nice explanation and suggestion of what amp to use, but the post went to Moderator approval and has not shown up yet... I will check with a mod and get it approved.

Crutchfield and Sonicelectronix both say your amp is only 250 RMS... if you are having dimming with that low of an amp, your gains are too high causing clipping or you have very small gauge charging wires under the hood. If you supplied a typical pre-packaged wiring kit, then it almost...