Recent content by jt4x4

Very. Thanks for your help.

You just said this...

What model is your Eclipse deck? Pictures? I don't use facespace.

For question #3: the amp doesn't need to know the speaker impedance. The amp creates an output voltage, and current and power follow suit based on impedance. The math is up to you.

Go for a drive together and have one of you look at the amp when it stops playing. If the amp powers down it could be remote. If the amp stays on your remote is working. Does it matter how fast you are going or any motion at all?

Depends if they name their company "American" to try to mislead consumers.

We've had this conversation before. I don't have anything against chinese products until they call themselves "American".

This site is absolutely about car audio. You had plenty of opinions in your first thread. At this point you are splitting hairs and basically asking others to interpret specs on a lot of speakers they don't have personal experience with. I'm pretty sure you're ultimately going to buy...

Measure AC voltage on the speaker terminals. That'll tell you if it's the amp or the subs.

He's probably wondering how many threads you're going to make for your pickup. Just buy a sub or two that you think you will like and try it out.

Buck is basically saying, "how many holes do you want to drill in your box?"

A monoblock only has one channel.

Alpine CDE-W265BT fits all your criteria.

However, I don't know if 3db is relatively good or bad.

Output curve is relatively flat, and the amp doesn't have any major "peaks". Decibels in this context are used for electrical reference rather than SPL measurement.