Recent content by JamesG

You definitely do not need a 4-channel amp. It's best to use a Class D mono amp for your subs. The amp you'll need will depend on the VC configuration of your subs. Are they SVC or DVC? Are they 2 ohms or 4 ohms?

LOL. Homework.........

Just how mean are those Colosus amps now days? Ten years ago, those amps were considered top-notch. This is when there was only ONE Zeus, Boltar, and Colosus. These amps were right there with US, Xtant, Zapco, and Orion from 10 years ago. Things have changed.

I'd go with the cheapest. DEI manufactures Orion, Viper, Directed, a/d/s, and a few others.

LMAO. Yep, heard them. They hit hard and sound like pure shit... PA sucks, period...

Go with the DEI Orion.... Hifonics amps are great for people on tight budgets, but they are far from the Hifonics amps from 10 years ago. Go to eCoustics and ask Glass Wolf about them. He's seen actual bench tests in person on these newer Hifonics amps. That Brutus 1500w RMS mono amp does about...

The distortion difference between an A/B and D on subs is basically inaudible. Go with a Class D mono amp. Also, forget about PA subs.

Of course he won't be drawing 250A at all times, but better safe than sorry. That 130A stock alternator won't even begin to power that amp. And that's without mentioning his amps powering his mids and highs. If he's gonna drop the cash for 2500w RMS going to his subs, then he might as well get...

If I remember correctly, that Orion 2500D is 2500w RMS. If so, there's no way a 130A alternator could even begin to keep up with that amp. It might work okay for awhile, but that alternator will quickly be ruined. You'll need a 250A or better alternator for sure just for that amp. Considering...

When your vehicle is running, your alternator is powering your amps. If your current draw from your amps is too much, your alternator cannot keep up. What is the total RMS output from your system? Also, what size fuses are used for each of your amps? I think someone else mentioned this, but...

The KX series amps are made in China and Korea. I was definitely disappointed when I saw this on my boxes, but everything I've read has shown they go well beyond their rated output. As for the BXD1500 from Hifonics, I've read the actual RMS output is closer to 1000w.

If it turns out to be a voltage problem, you can also contact Nathan at Excessive Amperage. He builds HO alternators. His quote for a 160A alt. for my 4-Runner was less than half as compared to the quotes I've got from "dealers". This was also a direct bolt-on.

Good. Doing your homework will make you happy in the end. This used to be a hobby of mine, but I was out of the loop for many years. When I first started to think of building a new system, I was actually considering Sony. Man, am I glad I did my research!

Good luck. All I can say is it's a good darn thing I didn't listen to just one review before purchasing my sub amp. I advise you to do more research before making your purchase. Wait for more of the vets here to respond. Try eCoustics and other car audio forums before you drop the cash.

That was my KX1200.1 that did the 1490w. I've seen birth sheets with ratings as low as 1300w and as high as 1510w. I was very happy to see the 1490w on that piece of paper. LOL. Definitely go with the KX1200.1 if your budget isn't too tight. I actually bought mine to stay on a budget. I was...