Recent content by iSLANDERxSE

I'll be sure to check the voltage with my DMM. I'll also check on my grounds as well. I will look into a better battery and perhaps doing the BIG 3. I do most of the work myself and I am not looking forward to changing the atlernator to the battery wire because that is the hardest one out of the...

Okay I'll be sure to check on the gain very shortly. So if the gain is set right and it continues with the problem. What would be my best solution?

So lets say he did have the gain set up too high. Can that cause the voltage spike that burned my voice coil?

My amps ground wire is directly to the batteries negative terminal because the battery is located under the back seat of the car. My battery is not pretty new but also it's not old. I'm thinking it's somewhere in between the two. As for the AGM, are you talking about those high performance...

First off, let me tell you the setup I currently have at the moment. I have a 1995 BMW 540i completely stock. I have one 12" JL audio W7 and powering that is a JL Audio 1000/1. Power and ground wires are 4 gauge in thickness. The wires on my batteries positive and negative sides are the same...

Thanks for correcting me. I have not checked my battery yet because I did not notice any slow cranking or anything that a low battery voltage can cause but when I get home from work I will check it with a DMM. The amp was not hot when I touched it.

I'm pretty new with the automotive audio systems so bare with me. I have 1995 BMW 540i completely stock. I have a 12" W7 subwoofer that is being powered by a JL audio 1000/1 and a Alpine head unit. I am running 4 gauge wires on both power and ground. Both wires are running straight to the...

dual 4 ohm

I just got a 12 inch Alpine Type R Subwoofer and it is being powered by a JL Audio 500/1 Amplifier. It worked at frist then the sub just stopped beating. It wasnt running very long and I was very upset. I checked the risistance on the sub and it was just a little lower 8 ohms. I searched around...