Recent content by DreamsteR

so I should be all good then?

d15 with vtec head+ boost= super high compression, hell with the vtec head its already 10.5 I like d-series better than B, they dont make as much tq, but they do breath alot better tho

3" I believe

dual cam zc or single? theres 2

Turbo d16 ftw

the b18c's are sooo much nicer, lot more tq, all around alot faster, plus more hp

99-00 SI? with a b16. its okay, it has no tq, even with a 8k redline.

I got a box already made up and Im wondering if I could use it for my P1 10" 4ohm Box dimesions are 27" width 20" depth 9" heigth like 33hz but it asks for like 1.4cubes

alright recommended port enclosure calls for 1cu ft, and 31hz...heres how my box is... 20" width 7" heighth 20" depth 5.5 inch heighth of port 1.5 port width 17.75 port length which gives me a port tuned to 31.26 is this okay for the sub then?

well techincally that is the HU wire, doesnt matter really tho, Ive pretty much found the prob...

lol yeah, Im thinking about buying a used alternator since Im a little...okay alot low on cash and I dont wanna run my credit card bill any higher, plus I gotta buy a clutch which is like 170 etc etc so, I guess I'll go bass-less/low bass till I can get a HO alt.

also still doesnt explain the battery being drained while car is started

yeah, I got the wire hooked up to the REM on the amp and the power antenna from the stero

welp I think I found the problem. I hooked the battery up to my charger (my battery dies overnight for some reason) had the car on and the system on as well and everytime the bass would hit even with the battery charger it'd make the engine slow down a bit...so Im thinking its the battery or...

would it be possible just to switch the wires on the amp?