Recent content by dcsoundguy

see my post for Big Red Man re: the sony 1505 on 01/08/02

My two cents worth here is for pure midrange and hi freq detail/extension& clarity at not too high a price(although they're not REAL cheap), it's hard to beat the "true blue" Cadence Ulrashock series amps from a couple years back--I've had more amps than I care to admit, and my A5000+ is so...

If it's anything remotely similar to the 280Watt 2X1channel XM1002HX I had, my advice is--don't laugh--you're better off with a 200Watt radio shack amp, as this sony was the biggest turd of a dissapointment I've ever come across!!!! It specs out beautifully and has clean sound, but has a rolled...

When u say Mcintosh, you say two things: audiophile and $$$$$!!!!! If that's you, there are a small handful of other amplifiers you may want to consider, my audiophile-geek friend tells me: Brax, Tube driver, and a slight notch below, the newer Linear Power amps. Or, if you're extremely lucky...

one more addition--as far as running a resistor or fuse to the cap, unless you're sadomasochistic and are going to discharge the thing afterwards (wanna go blind from a superspark???), I'd say the fuse you have with your amp is fine. Also, if you're ever doing work to your car and have to...

hopefully, your cap should be marked pos and neg or + and -. If not, the manufacturer should be summarily executed!!! Provided your amp already has a sufficient power cable run from the battery, you'll want to T-off this cable as close to your amp as possible, connecting it to the pos. side of...

very impressive, n2audio!! I would like to add to this thesis that the surge of mosfet use in amplifier power supply sections has drastically reduced the gap in sound quality between class A and class A/B as a result of their super fast switching capabilities. One trick that some manufacturers...

this is unfortunately so much more complex than u might imagine, riven, as going the seperates route can cause ur systm to sound like crap if not done right. But if you're PATIENT, have a good ear, follow a few basics and are at least a little bit savvy, u will end up in car audio nirhvanna...

xlnt trblshooting idea, natem, I quite agree with u ther...th prob still stands with th volt/ohm/"ampmeter", tho, as most units only read in th milliamp range, unless u know of one that reads amps(that isn't $$$$$!!!!)

re:6x9:none of th above...go 2-way

concurr with josh and natem; the cap will help, as would a higher amp alternator, but understand that playing your stereo with your engine off at either loud volume or for an extended period of time will not only drain your battery, but shorten your alternator's life (I learned the hard way!)...

The answer is no, it will not make your system work harder, it will just be better able to supply current to where it's required, not a bad thing. A friend of mine with a Ford Ranger upgraded his stock alternator to a high output one (I think it was 120Amps?), and he swears his system sounds...

It's www.eclipse-web.com hope that helps

forgot to mention that the rest of the system was of course not stock, otherwise my credibility would be suspect.

I asuume you're talking cd head units..I myself am seeking an answer re: their cass head units--I can say this much--my factory mazda cass head unit (Fujitsu ten, makers of Eclipse) has a worn out drive system-it is afterall a 1988- but it sounds absolutely incredible, better than my alpine...