Recent content by ckunke002

Hi, I have installed a set of these components a few years back. I feed each mid/tweeter combination with one amp channel (so they're not bi-amped). Today I noticed that the passenger side tweeter was not playing at all while I was trying to diagnose a problem with the driver side component set...

Side question... I set all gains with EQ flat and sub lvl up (as discussed), but then tweak the eq a bit (such as turn up bass and midbass a few notches), BUT do not come close to approaching the max volume (volume at which I set gain). For example playing at most around 22 or 23 when gain was...

Oh yeah right. So you agree that gain should preferably be set with it near the upper range?

Can you try to reword this? Little confused on the wording. Thanks for the respose.. seems like its all good then

I've been searching the forums, but this question seems to have a lot of different interpretation. I have an x395 HU, and have always wondered regarding the -15 to 15 sub out control if 15 gives rated voltage, or if 15 is the equivalent of setting your amp gains at full HU volume. In my previous...

just seemed like getting an accurate 45 degree cut on a small piece would likely end in losing a few fingers with most of those options. Lol

lol... is there any other way besides with a table saw...?

Cool, thanks for all that advice! Since i do not own a tablesaw, if i were to buy some 2x2s at lowes or home depot, would they be able to make 45's for me you think?

And since i haven't done this yet maybe there's something I'm missing, but what exactly makes running a couple braces hard to do? I figured i would just take a couple spare pieces of mdf maybe 1.5 or 2 inches wide and cut them to length and glue into box.

This is something else I was wondering about... How would flush mounting be a good idea, or a better idea than surface mounting on top of both boards? Aside from cosmetic purposes, there goes all the extra strength right? And you said that back as well.. you meant simply doubling up on the back...

And also with sub displacement and braces the internal volume would likely drop to something like 2.2 if not lower.. should I over-compensate for this more than I currently am?

This is what I have in mind right now... was thinking of running a couple lengths of maybe 2 inch wide strips of 3/4" mdf from baffle to rear wall and rear port length, and from right wall to the first port length. If that makes sense to you. With that long of a width should i run just 1 mdf...

I will be running about 1.2k max. I plan entirely on running bracing in other areas that I can, but bracing inside the port was something I was very unsure on. Thanks for answering!

About to build my first ported box, finally have all the details worked out how I want them and am ready to jump into it. One last thing I'm concerned/curious about is bracing inside the port itself, connecting the port to the exterior wall it's a couple inches from. For example, if I am...

I'll probably go 31ish... another thing I've been wondering is wether I need any sort of internal bracing or anything? It's just 1 12 with 1.2kw at very best... and aside from that just use wood glue plus screws right?