Recent content by bladebarrier

Band pass boxes are usually the most efficient wattage wise, for almost any speaker (but they're very large). The trick is that some speakers do better in them than others. You also compromise the lowest bass to do it. They're also complicated to design, and no pre-fab will be any good, unless...

There are a few things that can flag it. Which woofer is it? Bandpasses are possibly the most complicated box to design, but if you post the TS, I could screen shot some results.

Basically, that you could run a larger pair of sealed subs, 12's or 15's, in that box size. You'll need more than a hammer and a screwdriver, though. So.... Here's the next thought. Know anyone with a bigger tool box?

Because some how wattage only works in certain ranges? If that were the case, speakers wouldn't produce sound until they magically hit a certain input wattage at which point they would turn on? Is that how it works. Please, explain to me the electrical physics of this. Besides, BTL's are...

Ok, the box might be tight for 12's. It depends on how they measure the height, but it might be close. Here's a copy and paste from crutchfield for box size recommendations, for the kenwoods: # sealed box volume: 0.6-1.5 cu. ft. # ported box volume: 0.75-1.75 cu. ft. You're way too large...

Before you look at a sub, you should decide that the airspace is set. If 4ft3 is what you want, why not consider the btl? It's designed to work in 3-5 ported, and would probably suit your needs well. If you want ultra low bass, 2 15's sealed would be a better route, but it will take more power...

Quite possibly, yes. I'd need to know the measurements, but a box that big could very well support sealed 12's. In fact a lot of 12's would be very happy in that airspace.

TS, or Thiele-Small, is a set of standards for measuring the design parameters of your woofer. It's usually listed in the manual, or at the manufacturers website. Fs, Q, Xmax, and so on. People much smarter than us, came up with a way to calculate everything out. They named the math formulas...

That's a HUGE box for sealed 10's. I would consider that you make a project out of building a new box with your dad, or if there's room, stuff some larger cones in there. I can't think of a single car audio 10 that should need 1.86ft3 per woofer sealed, without it being a very compromised...

That's a lot of air for a sealed 10. Are they sealed or ported? Most kickers, I've dealt with, like small boxes as well. Is there some reason you don't want to run a larger driver, if you have a box that big? There are even 15's that will comfortably run in a sealed box that size.

STOP WHAT YOU'RE DOING! YOU'RE GOING TO BLOW THE AMP! Ok, now that I have your attention, your wiring has a problem. You need to immediately re-check every connection. You're going to do severe damage to your amp, or potentially start a fire or damage your electrical system. If you want, PM...

Er, it sounds like your amp has a feedback loop, or a grounding issue. Have you tested the amp on another speak? If your amp is causing the sub to jump out of its' skin like that, it's usually a signal or ground problem.

If you're running a sealed, you can gain 10-15% in volume, by stuffing. About 1 lb of fill per 1cu3 is normal. It can also increase transients and reduce standing waves. It also doesn't reduce the dampening. Fill makes a box appear larger because the fill heats up, which causes sound waves to...

Lots of subs are in that range, but how do you attach a VC from another company, to your motor? If you know how, I'd love to re-vc my gtimk2

Someone sold you a blown sub.... don't qq here about it