Recent content by bigpeen

I would offer them the bottom dollar, around $7,000. I recently purchased 2 cars in the last 2 months and I got "a deal" on both. Thing is...be patient if you can...VERY patient. You prbably really like this Durango but drop all attachment. That is quite a lot of miles...but it could be 60%...

IIWM - I would take everything out and return it to stock condition just to get a fresh start. Then I would double check your car's wires to make sure they are in tip top condition. When you are about to splice/harness everything double check the wires again just in case to make sure it is...

Depends on what you will be using the LOC for. If you are doing a 4 channel amp install using a 2 or 4 channel LOC would differ slightly. If you are doing a sub amp install you can tap to any of your speaker lines and you are ready to roll. You might want to provide some more insight as far...

I found this...it says 110... http://www.nextag.com/Nissan-350Z-2006-81006795/specs-html I don't know if its "average" or not, but I don't think its that bad. O...and YES...caps are probably worthless in your setup. Get a Optima Yellow Top and Big 3, then bump happily!

Its a lot better to have more power available so the power is pure and clean vs. having an amp that isn't capable of providing the desired wattage and in turn being "GAINED UP" to meet the subs wattage. However...underpowering (assuming the gains are set properly) is fine as well, which is why...

L7s What? Me? Bias?

Try to tighten all hinges, bolts, screws, etc. I would get some more deadener...a lot more. Layer it up and apply it everywhere. Take the door panels off and tape all the wire looms down in place and layer it thick on there as well. The SEARCH is your best friend on this forum though...the...

^^^ Yeah...I had to bypass the factory amp with my old 96 Eddie Bauer. You can get one from Crutchfield with the wires connected or do it on your own with some splicing and soldering.

I'm not the go-to for under the hood workings...but what I would do is take my car to Advanced Auto, O'Reilly's, etc...and have them read your battery and let you know where it stands and if its 100% get it in writing so you can tell AND show that to the alt manuf. I would see if you could have...

What type of vehicle?

Please list what you have for the DVD/CD player. As far as the FM modulator unless you plan on hooking up an older model satellite radio of some sort, or an iPod/MP3 player, you don't need it. Then again...depending on the capabilities of each of those parts you might be able to get a few...

Its always "recommended" to ground all of your extras in the same location to cut down ground noise and looping. I have never had any experience with noise or voltage issues with same spot location or separate locations. In my newest vehicle (Chrysler Pacifica) I have an amp under the front...

What year Explorer is it? If its circa 94-97 get ready for a real PITA.

OK... I am a little confused, but I will try and help. The SUB is 330 watts RMS and has a single 4 ohm voice coil. The sub itself is 4 ohm and that can't be changed unless it is switchable...which I doubt. I am assuming that your amp is 450 watts RMS. You need to give us some more info such...

Go with the Kicker and feed those bad boys.