Recent content by andrewsfm

The.... Quantum Audio QA3X Looks alot like the... Clarion MCD360 $23 less for the same internal components branded under another company? Or a cheap knock off?

Well apparently my bass shook loose some screws inside of the capacitor casing. The one causing the problem was the screw connecting the carbon capacitor to the circuit board. The bad connection was sending heat into the negative terminal connection causing the copper wire to turn that corroded...

Will find out tomorrow I guess. Just need to find my connectors to bypass the cap.

Just for information sake, the capacitor I have is an 18 farad Tsunami model. I agree. They only slightly smooth out peaks and drops in voltage along the wires. They are no replacement for a high output alternator, I know... Like I said, I'm not here to debate their usefulness. But I'm going...

The sub amp is a MTX TA9200. It's about 3 ft of wire away from the capacitor, and the heat is only within 4 inches of the capacitor or so. I have 0/1 AWG from the battery positive to the amp and another 0/1 AWG from the amp to the battery negative, so it can't be a chassis ground issue. Maybe...

Yup, and added heat will further increase the resistance in the wire, creating an even greater voltage drop, etc etc. I pulled on the connections pretty hard, and they seem well in place. They're Streetwires type set screw connectors. I'll double check tomorrow, but I'm thinking that's not...

That's not a why, or what to look for. You're probably just one of those guys that thinks caps have no place in a stereo system when in reality, they have a purpose, just not as the cure-all many people believe them to be. Surprisingly, your amps have caps in them. Best be safe and de-solder...

So I happened to take a look at my capacitor today, and noticed that a few inches worth of the wires going in and out of the capacitor are VERY hot after playing the system hard on a 10 minute drive home today. The rest of the line is cool like normal. Didn't check anywhere else today but will...

I have your average modern day digital multimeter, but it shows different readings at different frequencies, so I don't know if I can trust it completely but after reading a review of the one I have online, the poster claims it's accurate up to 1kHz, so I will have to retest. I've also got an...

"DMMs are only designed to measure RMS AC voltage at 60Hz. At any other frequency there is a unknown margin of error and they will report an incorrect reading." - Quote from another site. I want to protect these tweeters, so does anyone know a trick for setting the gains on a >600Hz high...

Yeah, I can get the TLD22 from anywhere. I'm looking for the SLD44 since it has the capability to take 1 input signal and output it on 2 sets of RCAs at full output voltage and without using Y-splitter cables, etc.

Really looking for the SLD44, so if you have one, let me know!

Well I've also found the MAXXSONICS MX-1 which seems promising, but I've always been a little weary of that brand cause I've never really heard much about them.

Definitely. If I was going to spend as much as they want for that, I would just get a new head unit and all the required adapters to make it work with Ford's SYNC capabilities and steering wheel controls.

Well neither Audiocontrol or Cache has what I'm looking for, other than the Audiocontrol DQL-8 which is WAY too expensive and overkill.