Recent content by 2023 LTZ

As long as common sense is available to use the scoring is irrelevant. I’ll bow out.

That may explain the insanity of info in that post.

I fell off my box, band aid in place. Not to justify degen posts but common sense is needed. In posting and interpreting free information. Not for or against the king of 500 years ago. Brandon though, let’s go.

I guess I was rambling.

I’m going to chime in. I don’t know a great deal about installing but I tend to verify ideas before I use them. If it’s worded correctly it is more palatable as an idea but often those who appear to know nothing or lay out a seemingly insane idea on a part of installation stand out as just that...

That amp choice made sense in that you’ll be able to run a sub at 500w at 4 ohms. The single channel bd counterpart is 500w at 1 ohm. Some prefer this. I realize this is not answering your question. The points and suggestions made are insightful. I think many of us thought our original choices...

Shrink tubing is a better more aesthetic solution than tape.

Thanks for clarifying. You grounded eventually to the motor.

Maybe it’s different from car to car but I chassis grounded. I can use my dmm to chech ohm resistance or battery charge state from the positive to any point I can reach w the leads. Say I’m checking ohm resistance. Battery negative to opposite side strut? 0.05 Same side brake rotor? 0.05 From...

So what’s it grounded to under the hood? Just the negative battery terminal?

I’ll say this Those huge tspec terminals don’t accommodate jumper cables should that need arise. I had some kickers like that and wasn’t able to jump a friends car. Attaching a battery charger won’t be possible either. They look cool and a person can hook lots of wires to them but functionality...

What did you ground the front battery to? You have positive and negative distribution from the rear battery to those caps and amps then grounded back to the front?

This person is on a different thread asking how to correctly hook up a preamp under the seat. If not a troll there’s a serious language barrier.

If you have the remote lead connected, the ground fully connected and are sure the positive is solidly connected, the power won’t stay on while the ignition is on?

It’s 5v preout to amps. Then amped from there. Cross over volt area shouldn’t be affected.