No, this is what kills many of these amps.
You cannot run a Brazilian like a Korean or it'll be in the shop.
This goes for all full bridge amps including American made.
The bass 12k is rated for 14.4v. 16.5v is just max range power supply to be on.
Think of a voltage divider.
At 0db for about a couple seconds, providing 14.4v at 1ohm will provide maximum power as stated online and in manual.
Under same conditions, increasing dc voltage will pop the fets as increase in voltage equals increase in current.
The voltage above 14.4v is for charging and starting voltage. As long as you are dropping below 14.5v, you are fine.
Hovering real close to 14.4v and clipping will also do the same thing as your output can increase as much as 40% in some cases when clipped to death.
If I were running a 14.4v bank, charging at 16.2v, as long as my load drop under near maximum output for the given reactive impedance is below 14.5v and clip free, then it's good.
0.5ohm wiring requires staying below around 13.5v to keep it safe and good output.
The absolute best is high dc voltage and wired around 1.5ohm with somewhat low rise.
This would imply a decent flat, average rise around 2.5ohm which would keep the output around 9-9.5k and keep the fets at low current, low heat. But you can't play with dynamic music like that so competition only is where it's more controlled.
Output on bass 12k on proper electrical should net up to about 8k on daily.
If space is no issue for what you want to do, get the vital amp.
The bass15k will do about 1500w more after rise than 12k.
Bass30k will hover close to 20kw daily and 26k 1ohm at 13.2v, 30k 1ohm 14.4v burping.