No ground found. Please help!

tripp

Junior Member
I'm trying to install an amp and sub and it's been years. I have everything run and cannot locate a ground spot anywhere and am going crazy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rage.gif.0ad8a6e5565b5fddce406566fdd05149.gif.

My car is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer.

I've tested my power cable to the negative terminal of the battery and get over 12v and get nothing from any bolt in the trunk, seat bolts, etc. I've sanded paint from bare metal in the trunk and also nothing.

I noticed on the first bolt when I had sanded the paint that there seems to be another sheet of metal also painted under the visible metal. Is this just the way some cars are designed, and is keeping me from finding a point?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

Any options or suggestions would be appreciated.

 
If it comes down to it you can run a line straight to the battery.

but bolts to check are

-seat belt bolts

-bolts that hold the actual seats down..

etc.. they need to be through the frame though

 
The seat belt bolts gave me nothing, while I got 0.1v constant from the rusty seat bolt. I will try sanding heavily on the seat one.

Is this just how some cars are made? I remember being able to ground to just about anything in my cars in the past. I'm now concerned maybe it means the battery isn't properly connected to the chassis.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

 
Are you sure that you had the fuse in the power cable while you were testing for ground(assuming you have a fuse which you absolutely should)? or were you using another 12+ volt source

 
As my original post said, I get plenty of power moving when tested to the negative terminal on the battery.. so no my lead was not missing a fuse, and yes it's fused. Give me your money fasfocus.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif

No points found still, so I will be checking the battery->chassis connection and going from there.

 
As my original post said, I get plenty of power moving when tested to the negative terminal on the battery.. so no my lead was not missing a fuse, and yes it's fused. Give me your money fasfocus.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif
No points found still, so I will be checking the battery->chassis connection and going from there.
Wait... how did you test your power lead and the negative terminal? Is your DMM lead like 15ft long? Or is the power wire not run in the car yet or what?

If your battery wasn't grounded correctly, this would not be the first time you noticed it. There are about 57 points that would at least give you a reading. Not all of them would be suitable for a ground, but it would at least close the circuit.

 
It cant be that hard. I mean brake lights and **** are grounded to the chassis.

try a strut tower in the rear or like kyle said make a ground run to the battery, but that's going to cost more obviously for a potentially easy fix.

 
Wait... how did you test your power lead and the negative terminal?
that's what I'm saying. You're probably using your DMM incorrectly.

The only way I've used a dmm to test for ground is to set it to ohms, put one lead on the negative battery terminal and the other to the suspected ground and find a point with the least amount of resistance.

 
Use the Ohm setting on your meter to determine ground strength, not the DC Voltage setting.

Mitsubishi does some weird **** with their grounds. 100 bucks says if you ground it to any one of those grounding spots you've been testing it'll be fine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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tripp

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