Newbie sound is just bad ...

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hal400

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I have a Nissan Sentra GXE 2001.

I wanted to upgrade my sound system, nothing fancy i just wanted to have something similar to the sound system of a good 2008 car.

So i bought a panasonic system CQ-RX400 (to have usb capability).

I tought i wouln't have much problem buy buying panasonic speaker too. CJ-DA1633, i thought those will sound better than the OEM speaker ...

But they sound worst, i just changed the rear speaker, i don't want to change the front speaker, im affraid to worsen my case ! The specification of those speakers doesn't seem so bad ?

Are those speaker piece of crap and really worse than the original sound system ? Or i may have made something wrong in the installation process...

Im not an expert i just want a decent sound system in my car.

thank you.

 
You have to understand that A) those are cheaper speakers, yes and B) they're not amplified.

If it were me, I'd return the speakers if you have that option and you do not like the sound. We can put you onto sets online that will sound better. Just please understand that you can get clearer, just not a whole lot louder without adding an amplifier to the speakers.

By the way, a lot of newer stock vehicles have an amplifier of some sorts in them for the audio.

Edit - Also. If you're wanting it louder without adding an amplifier, you will still get clearer just not tons. Odds are you're going to jack your setting up to the highest htey'll go to get it louder and you will distort the speakers. Distortion = less cleanliness.

 
You have to understand that A) those are cheaper speakers, yes and B) they're not amplified.
If it were me, I'd return the speakers if you have that option and you do not like the sound. We can put you onto sets online that will sound better. Just please understand that you can get clearer, just not a whole lot louder without adding an amplifier to the speakers.

By the way, a lot of newer stock vehicles have an amplifier of some sorts in them for the audio.

Edit - Also. If you're wanting it louder without adding an amplifier, you will still get clearer just not tons. Odds are you're going to jack your setting up to the highest htey'll go to get it louder and you will distort the speakers. Distortion = less cleanliness.
Well i have made a big mistake ... I don't know if i can return those, in the worst i will put them on ebay ...

Do you have any suggestion

a plan A:

to get clearer sound without amplifier and somewhat improve loudness and bass ...

a plan B:

one with a good entry amplifier system.

so i could compare.

I want clearer sound and something that does'nt distort at such low level than the oem system. But not something that cost too much, i don't pass enought time in my car for that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

thank you for your help !

 
Well i have made a big mistake ... I don't know if i can return those, in the worst i will put them on ebay ...
Do you have any suggestion

a plan A:

to get clearer sound without amplifier and somewhat improve loudness and bass ...

a plan B:

one with a good entry amplifier system.

so i could compare.

I want clearer sound and something that does'nt distort at such low level than the oem system. But not something that cost too much, i don't pass enought time in my car for that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

thank you for your help !

so youre just looking for a small amp for all your inside speakers? no sub?

if so, theres plenty of small cheap amps that will do the job. also, try component sets instead of coaxial speakers, they sound better (you can put the tweeter or mid in 2 different places for imaging) and can produce some nicer midbass.

 
I agree, but if you're trying to get out as cheap as possible, coaxials will probably be enough for you. If you can wire it yourself, you can pick up a cheap wiring kit and a relatively inexpensive amplifier both together for under 150 bucks.

If I were you I would try amplifying the speakers you have already purchased, and if that does not give you what you want, then upgrade.

Another side note - if you want bass you can easily add a very small amp and an 8" woofer for minimal costs. Your coaxials are not made to provide bass necessarily, they're made to pick up the frequencies inbetween your subwoofer and your tweeter. "Midbass"

And Edit - CAN you do it yourself?

 
I agree, but if you're trying to get out as cheap as possible, coaxials will probably be enough for you. If you can wire it yourself, you can pick up a cheap wiring kit and a relatively inexpensive amplifier both together for under 150 bucks.
If I were you I would try amplifying the speakers you have already purchased, and if that does not give you what you want, then upgrade.

Another side note - if you want bass you can easily add a very small amp and an 8" woofer for minimal costs. Your coaxials are not made to provide bass necessarily, they're made to pick up the frequencies inbetween your subwoofer and your tweeter. "Midbass"

And Edit - CAN you do it yourself?
This would be the cheapest way but I have installed coaxials into my truck, my dads truck, and 2 friend's cars. All with aftermarket HU and none compared to my 6.5" comps running on an amp. Deadening really improved the lower end of the mids bass. I have heard that some coaxials sound very good, but have never personally heard any sets that did.

 
This would be the cheapest way but I have installed coaxials into my truck, my dads truck, and 2 friend's cars. All with aftermarket HU and none compared to my 6.5" comps running on an amp. Deadening really improved the lower end of the mids bass. I have heard that some coaxials sound very good, but have never personally heard any sets that did.
Depends on what sets...

Your Components will generally take more power than a coax and is more efficient than a coax, and as you stated you can image it a little better which will help the sound.

Honestly, I installed some Pioneer REV coaxials in a friends truck on an older alpine 50x4 and I really enjoyed it. The screamed wayyy more than I would have given them credit for(I tried to talk him into components as well haha) and he didnt even need what he got.

OP(Original Poster) - Some better coaxials and a 50x4 amplifier will make you plenty happy, I believe.

You might want to consider adding a subwoofer in the future for that bass you're looking for though. You can do that relatively cheaply as well. It seems like you just want it to sound fairly well and I dont see you as wanting to bump down the block pissing people off and having people look at you at redlights.

A single 10 or 12 in a sealed box with 3-400 watts should be sufficient. I'm probably going to link you to some Profile amplifiers here in a sec if I can access them here at work.

 
can you describe how the speakers sound? Is it just distortion or are you lacking certain frequencies?
The 2 new panasonic sound like cellar, this is the best description i can gave ...

There is something i don't undersand ...

I somehow understand the difference between peak watt and rms watt, the panasonic are 230 watt and 115 rms ... But un the nissan speaker its written 8 W whats does this mean ??? How could they sound better than the Pana ? I undersdand that wattage isn't all but ...

But the pana distort at lower level thant the oem !

 
The 2 new panasonic sound like cellar, this is the best description i can gave ...
There is something i don't undersand ...

I somehow understand the difference between peak watt and rms watt, the panasonic are 230 watt and 115 rms ... But un the nissan speaker its written 8 W whats does this mean ??? How could they sound better than the Pana ? I undersdand that wattage isn't all but ...
the nissan speaker probably only had a rms rating of 8 watts.. or it could be 8ohm.... but sensitivity and efficiency plays a big role in how it sounds better than the panasonic ones. helotaxi or immacomputer can explain better on that issue. but try changing settings on your h/u and see if you can improve the sound any.

 
6952.jpg


http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=6952

those are 70$. what size are you looking for?

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5655

5655.gif


This is as cheap a component set and amplifier setup will be.

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=6578

6578.jpg


http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2716

2716.jpg


 
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_489AP740/Profile-AP740.html?tp=115

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_489AP1000/Profile-AP1000.html?tp=115

RE Audio 12" RE SE is on sale for 125 shipped right now form what I understand. I can find that if you're interested in the Sub portion. It would work well with that amplifier, you can run it sealed, it sounds great, and you won't be lacking.

The 4 channel is plenty of power for some nice coaxials for you as well, and you can pick both of those amplifiers up on Ebay for relatively cheap. Cheaper than they are there, at that - if that's the route you're going for.

Just thought that I would post that for ya, if you want Coaxial suggestions I'd be happy to suggest a few.

 
And those panasonics are 115w rms?

If so, keep those and amplify them. Right now you're giving them 22 watts RMS with your aftermarket Head Unit and you are simply distorting them trying to get them louder.

They just need some power.

 
And those panasonics are 115w rms?
If so, keep those and amplify them. Right now you're giving them 22 watts RMS with your aftermarket Head Unit and you are simply distorting them trying to get them louder.

They just need some power.
Ah !

That would be a good start before going any further ! What i most do to achieve that.

here the specification of my speakers

Type 3-way

Size 6 1/2"

Peak Input Power 230W

Frequency Range 30Hz - 50kHz

Sensitivity (S.P.L.) 91dB/W/m

Nominal Impedance 4 ohms

Mounting Depth 1.909"

Magnet Weight 10.0 oz

Typical Mounting Location Door & rear deck

Tweeter Design 1-3/8" titanium dome tweeter, 5/8" supertweeter

Discrete Edge Design Yes

Holographic Surface Design Yes

Elastomer Coated Cloth Edge Yes

Ultra-Heat Resistant Voice Coil Bobbin Yes

High Linearity Suspension Yes

European Standard Frame Dimensions Yes

and on the box its written 115 watt rms.

 
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hal400

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