Kenwood KAC-X201T Blinking Blue Triangle

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Deepak Walia

CarAudio.com Newbie
First time poster here. For the past 6 years, this amp and the subwoofer were working fine until yesterday. The Kenwood KAC-X201T is now just blinking blue.

Here is what I have tested so far:
1) The positive wire from the battery and ground wire measure above 14v

2) Multi-meter lead connected to positive from battery and ground to chassis is above 14v

3) Once the positive from the battery and ground wire are connected to the AMP, something weird happens. Car is turned on, if I touch the positive and ground terminal at the AMP, the highest voltage I get is about 9v. However, if I touch the positive terminal on the AMP and the ground to the chassis of the car, I get over 14v. (this is with no sub hooked up to the AMP as I wanted to isolate the amp)

First picture, measuring at the AMP
Second picture, positive at AMP and ground at chassis
Third picture, positive and ground touching wires directly without being attached to AMP

So, does this mean that something is wrong with the AMP itself? It wood seem that the circuitry in the AMP is causing something to happen that drops the voltage.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank You.
 

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Almost everything I could find indicates the amp is in protect mode. I assume you've lost all sound too?
 
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Well, I only had the subwoofer connected. Since the AMP does not turn on, the subwoofer does the work. The rest of the speakers work fine because they are not connected to the any in any way.
 
Okay, that's what I was referring too. The amp has issues internally most likely. If you have an inclination to repair, good luck!

Taking it in is usually $85 to $100 to look at it then that amount is applied to the repair. It's 100 x 2 if what I found it is correct. Too many new options for 600 watts under the cost to repair your 2 x 100 watt amp to actually consider repairing it.

400 watts at 2 ohms $79


125 x 2 at 2 ohms $55


350 X 1 at 2 ohms and one of my personal favorites $76


Keeping it in the eXcelon family 500 watts x 1 a# 2 ohms $ 140

 
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Yes. Amp is at fault. Could have been over driven and got too hot and finally shut down on its last thermal protective procedure/burnt a resister or maybe something else. Id crack it open and take a look myself. Might be an easy repair to do yourself with some time spent, but not worth sending it off to get it repaired when amps and power is so much cheaper these days and with at least a 1 yr warranty. id check the ohms values on the sub to make sure a coil isnt cooked that caused this amp to fail.
 
Thank you for the great information. Here is the subwoofer I have. I have not tested the individual subwoofers to see if there is a problem with them (and I'm not sure how to even test them). Which of the amps that you suggested would be a best fit?

Kenwood KSC-BP210
 

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Thank you for the great information. Here is the subwoofer I have. I have not tested the individual subwoofers to see if there is a problem with them (and I'm not sure how to even test them). Which of the amps that you suggested would be a best fit?

Kenwood KSC-BP210
There are other Vids to search for on how this is conducted. find one that explains to your liking/understanding many out there. As for an amplifier I can look around and reply in a few

 
@audiobaun, funny you linked that video. I just watched it before your post. Thank you again. I will test the subs tomorrow. I think its worth just getting an new amp. This Kenwood amp has served me well. I was 21 when I got it, I'm 47 now. It has served its time; lol.
 
@audiobaun, funny you linked that video. I just watched it before your post. Thank you again. I will test the subs tomorrow. I think its worth just getting an new amp. This Kenwood amp has served me well. I was 21 when I got it, I'm 47 now. It has served its time; lol.
LOL. No prob. Ya. Ive still got some amps from the early 90s that I still play around with from time to time. I still like my older amps. Alpine has always been a great choice, and still is a great quality made amp. May be a little more than whats been mentioned, but deff a great made amp that will last for sure. You can still find some really good two ch old amps on Ebay that will serve well @ 4 and even 2 ohms for you

 
There are all kinds of amplifiers to choose from these days with some time spent searching withi your budget of a good used amplifier or a new one for those subs.






 
My question is, since 8.8v is quite a large voltage drop from 14v, is the amp getting hot, or it's power wiring?

If the amp was causing the voltage to drop that low, that means it is drawing a somewhat substantial amount of current, which is accompanied by smoke / overheating if the amp is causing it.

I would try re-grounding the amp with different wiring, and or testing it near a battery with different wiring to see how it behaves when connected directly to the battery. Usually when voltage readings are low with the system powered on, and nothing is overheating / smoking, it is a bad connection somewhere in the power wire and or ground wire, in this case it seems like maybe the ground. (bad ring terminal crimp, bad fuse holder, bad ground connection)

A bad connection can show proper voltage when not under load, but can’t sustain it when the amp tries to power on and draws current, hence the 8v reading. Not saying this is 100% the problem, but it’s worth testing the amp out of the car near the battery just to be certain and rule it out the wiring entirely.
 
My question is, since 8.8v is quite a large voltage drop from 14v, is the amp getting hot, or it's power wiring?

If the amp was causing the voltage to drop that low, that means it is drawing a somewhat substantial amount of current, which is accompanied by smoke / overheating if the amp is causing it.

I would try re-grounding the amp with different wiring, and or testing it near a battery with different wiring to see how it behaves when connected directly to the battery. Usually when voltage readings are low with the system powered on, and nothing is overheating / smoking, it is a bad connection somewhere in the power wire and or ground wire, in this case it seems like maybe the ground. (bad ring terminal crimp, bad fuse holder, bad ground connection)

A bad connection can show proper voltage when not under load, but can’t sustain it when the amp tries to power on and draws current, hence the 8v reading. Not saying this is 100% the problem, but it’s worth testing the amp out of the car near the battery just to be certain and rule it out the wiring entirely.
Thank you, I will test out the amp at the battery.
 
There are all kinds of amplifiers to choose from these days with some time spent searching withi your budget of a good used amplifier or a new one for those subs.






Thanks for the suggestions. If the amp is really dead, I may just buy one of these. But, I going to do some more testing.
 
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Deepak Walia

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