Hot Cable

[JustaBowla]

I have installed an HO alternator and 2 XS power batteries under the hood. I have everything fused including the main power wire running to the main fuse block for the vehicle. This cable originally had a factory 140 amp fuse on it, so that is what I have on it as well. I have also upgraded it to 1/0 OFC like the rest of the system.
The problem is this cable for the vehicle is getting hot, so hot that it is melting the HDPE fuse block and causing connection issues. This causes the vehicle to die due to this cable loosing connection.
None of my other cables get hot or have this issue.
Any ideas?

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[HardofWhoring]

It sounds like all the battery and alternator wiring is 1/0.

What cable exactly is melting. What all is it connected to?

If you're melting a fuse block, you are either exceeding the amperage it can handle, or your connections are not strong enough that you are getting resistance.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

loosing connection.
None of my other cables get hot or have this issue.
Any ideas?

Something is not tightened in that particular circuit.

 

[JustaBowla]

The far right is the cable in question, although that was the original cable that I changed from.

 

[JustaBowla]

I upgraded from the factory (crap) cable to the 1/0 OFC cable because I thought it was something to do with the wire. The weird thing is it doesn't happen quickly, it happened today after a 2 hour drive that included a couple stops. Pulled into a Target parking lot and boom it lost connection and died. I knew immediately what happened, so I got out and got it tightened back up. Did the shopping and went to another store where I checked it again and seemed ok. The A/C was running the whole time and I wonder if the fuse isn't creating too much resistance and needs a bigger fuse. The old factory wire that I replaced was really stiff and seemed like it may have gotten hot too...

I am going to try bypassing the fuse for a bit as a test, if this produces no heat, I will try uping the fuse to a higher value.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

The far right is the cable in question, although that was the original cable that I changed from.

View attachment 50377

That wire at the Top Right.. Does that go to your fuse panel under the hood?? If so.. That wire goes to the Fuse panel and is or should have like a 50 amp or up to a 100 amp fuse (Batt) and you do not need to Fuse that wire. You are feeding more current back tom the source. Another note.. I would highly recommend placing another nut on top of all that you have and hold back on the bottom one as seen and tighten the new (2nd Nut) to lock them tightly secure.so they dont come loose on the bumpy roadway. You can use the Neoprene lock nuts that will work even better

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

That wire at the Top Right.. Does that go to your fuse panel under the hood?? If so.. That wire goes to the Fuse panel and is or should have like a 50 amp or up to a 100 amp fuse (Batt) and you do not need to Fuse that wire. You are feeding more current back tom the source. Another note.. I would highly recommend placing another nut on top of all that you have and hold back on the bottom one as seen and tighten the new (2nd Nut) to lock them tightly secure.so they dont come loose on the bumpy roadway. You can use the Neoprene lock nuts that will work even better

That wire should go to your fuse panel to power it up.There should be a fuse in there that Says Batt. It will be either Green,Pink,Yellow or Brown. Those are kind of an expensive fuse too. I blew one and was late at night and needed to get home. I had to use a piece of Coat hanger cut to make contact to get the truck running until Orileys opened up the next morning

 

[JustaBowla]

So I did some research on the original setup and the fuse is not 140 amp it's 175 amp, which is what I am using. Been over a year since I originally put this all in.
More so I figured out this fuse was between the alternator and the battery. With this main power wire on the alternator side of the fuse. In my opinion this means I really don't need to fuse this cable as the alternator is fused on it's own now.
I eliminated the fuse and have no issues, yet. Will be keeping a close eye on it and may put a higher value fuse on it in the end, just to keep my Team Fuse membership....

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I've had pretty bad luck with that style fuse block, things loosen up and you get melting cables. This stuff all needs to be extremely tight to function safely.

 

[JustaBowla]

I've had zero issues with the rest of the connections on this block or the 2 blocks back at the amps. I only run OFC cable and even with crimped connections I don't have problems.
I made these my self and spend a lot of time making sure there are no chances of grounding out or open connections something can touch. Will be adding plastic nuts to the top to keep them safe as well.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

even with crimped connections

Did you use ferrules inside these holes?

 

[JustaBowla]

No I am not using ferrules on these.
I am upgrading this fuse block and battery terminal soon as I will be adding another alternator and adding another run of 1/0 to the back.