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85Caprice4d
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Milwauke, WI
((First off, the biggest thing I need help with is amp selection, tweeter slection, and midbass selection, and i would like to keep it under 600 if possible.))

I just got a job again, so Im planning out what I am going to do.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

I have alot of ideas for my caprice. I just ordered a dash install kit from best buy for a 1985 caprice classic. That only set me back $20 so I was thinking I would do my dash custom soon. I was thinking of measuring out a peice of sheet metal which I could bend into a small arch. I want to take out the stock heater controls and have them redone and organised on the Sheet metal arch. Then I want to make the space below the heater (stock was a 2din size am/fm tuner) into 2 custom 1din spaces(to do this I might have to extend the whole space and move down or take out the ash tray). I then want to put a new h/u in (and maybe an equilizer if I can afford it). Then I was thinking of making a fiberglass center consol to fill the space in between the driver and passenger side leg spaces. Then I want to take out the two vents on the farthest sides of driver and passenfer side(or mount in close proximity to) and put in a tweeter on both sides. Then I want to re-do the stock rear deck with two good s/q midbass or just higher quality 6x9's.(I was also thinking of swapping out the back seat for one with an armrest in the middle that when folded down leads to the trunk). I also want to take out the stock analog clock that sits dead center in the dash, and put in a digital spedometer and cover it along with the vents on both side of it with a fine cloth style mesh.(so the only time u see the spedometer is when the car is running and the light is lit up.)

Eventualy but probably rated low on my to do list, I want to tint my windows with the shiny silver/black faded tint. (I dont know a good percent but I want the h/u and most of the dash hiddin from outside.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

For the trunk, I want to rip all materials out, paint the metal so it matches the outside, then put in the subs and amps. For subs I plan on buying two Elemental Designs 13Kv.2 D4.((http://www.amazon.com/Elemental-Designs-13Kv-2-D4/dp/B000EGAMNU)) For the amps, I dont know much on how to determine what amp will be best for the subs, so If anyone has any ideas, I want a clean (plain and simple in visual style) amp for both subs. Then I was woundering if I will need an amp to run the tweeters and midbass. before I install subs and amps, I want to build a custom amp rack that will hide the amp(s) and any visable wiring with a hinged door. I want to have the sub box(which i still havnt decided on, but a 2 12" square box) to sit in a fitted cutout from the amp rack that will be about 1-2" deep(to prevent sliding without fascets).

Eventually I plan on redoing the dash, which will include repainting it the stock blue, putting diamond plated, or brushed steel where the cheap stainless steel looking crap is now, puting a digital spedometer in the center of the dash:cool: , h/u install, mesh over all vents and new spedometer,//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif and possibly center console as an addition.

After I get most of the speakers, dash, and trunk install done, I want to put a new peice of blue carpeting in on the floor, because the one in it now has some tears and faded scrapes in it, and possibly replace the fornt "split bench" With 2 comfy seats(so i can continue the center console to go in between them.)

I also need to remove the apolstory on the inner roof of the car, (my friends all played with it, and I told them the adheisive would come off) and replace it with new ****, same color.

After all of this is done, I guess I dont know what I really want to do as all the major problems with body work will be getting fixed during all of this which will include;

4 new fenders

4 new doors

new brakes

tires/rims

exhaust

put in a performance carberator

spark plugs

altinator

battery

front end alignment

shocks

struts

tie rod check

and alot more under the hood.

so I need help in slection with:

amps

midbass

tweeters

small(1"x2.5" ish) rectangular digital spedometer

h/u

speaker box

and appx cost of wiring if I use all 0awg for grounding, power, and the big3.

battery

altinator

dash paint

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif :greedy: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif

I guess I could start working on my tough guy look when I drive next to people with my window down, but maybe thats getting to far ahead of ourselves eh?

 
Don't use 0 Gauge when you don't really need it; even if you see everyone around here using it.

The gauge of a wire basically depends on the length of wire needed as much as anything else and since grounding wires are typically 1 foot or maybe a tad bit more or less then you can save money and buy a decent string of 4awg or 2awg or even 8awg to ground with.

Big three, 0 gauge is recommended as well as fuses and whatever split-looming or covering to help match your under-the-hood engine components.

Either way, your plan looks very similar to mine because you're upgrading so many aspects of your vehicle besides just the sound system.

Good luck.

 
Don't use 0 Gauge when you don't really need it; even if you see everyone around here using it.
Whether he should or should not use 1/0awg cable will depend on what ultimately gets installed.

Even if the initial install doesn't physically require 1/0 should the possibility exist that upgrading to that requirement sometime in the future might happen it ends up more economical over the long haul to go ahead and run 1/0awg to begin with.

The gauge of a wire basically depends on the length of wire needed as much as anything else
Actually it depends considerably more on how much current the end user intends on drawing through it.Overall length is a secondary consideration.

and since grounding wires are typically 1 foot or maybe a tad bit more or less then you can save money and buy a decent string of 4awg or 2awg or even 8awg to ground with.
You should never use cable smaller than the power feed as a ground. Never. Period.
Big three, 0 gauge is recommended as well as fuses and whatever split-looming or covering to help match your under-the-hood engine components.
Now this is sound advice the previous lunacy notwithstanding.
 
You should never use cable smaller than the power feed as a ground. Never. Period.Now this is sound advice the previous lunacy notwithstanding.
I agree, but just worked on a Charger with factory batt installed in the trunk. Had 1/0 welding wire for the pos, and 10gauge for the ground. I was surprised to say the least....

 
I agree, but just worked on a Charger with factory batt installed in the trunk. Had 1/0 welding wire for the pos, and 10gauge for the ground. I was surprised to say the least....
That is odd.

Apparently the electrical engineers at Chrysler Corp need a bit of remedial training?

Will it work?

Technically it can.

Is it an optimum situation?

Certainly not.

 
thanks for the advice.

no one knows what amp to use to run the 2 elemental design's i wanna get?

or what amp to get to run the comps u should tell me to get??

aye me, its time for bed

 
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85Caprice4d

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