2002 Explorer

Looks amazing dude.....i shoulda have done allll this before i started my setup.
Question, did you make that hole too run 1/0 through hood or it was there?
The "hole" was there....sort of. There is a hole in the metal firewall, but there is a plastic insert. I cut a hole through the plastic insert. The hole lines up perfect to run the 1/0 from the hole, under the carpet, and into the wiring channel.

Just used this little dohickey, and ran it through.
firewallgrommet.jpg


 
The "hole" was there....sort of. There is a hole in the metal firewall, but there is a plastice insert. I cut a hole hrough the plastic insert. The hole lines up perfect to run the 1/0 from the hole, under the carpet, and into the wiring channel. Just used this little dohickey, and ran it through.
firewallgrommet.jpg
Any better pics of the entrance?

I looked forever the other day when i was in the mood too run some and i couldnt find nothing.

Its on the drivers side right?

Think you can fit 2 runs through with no grommet?

 
If you look back at post #14, it goes through right behind the power brake booster. You will also see a perforated rectangular shape in the factory sound deadening, on the inside, to the left of the steering column. You need only cut along the perforation to get it out of the way. BUT, I would NOT run it through without a grommet of some kind.

BTW, question....Why two runs ? One run of 1/0 will work fine.

 
If you look back at post #14, it goes through right behind the power brake booster. You will also see a perforated rectangular shape in the factory sound deadening, on the inside, to the left of the steering column. You need only cut along the perforation to get it out of the way. BUT, I would NOT run it through without a grommet of some kind. BTW, question....Why two runs? One run of 1/0 will work fine.
 

I want 1 ground and 1 power.

 

Ill look tomorrow.

 

I was gonna put some deadener around the hole with no grommet if itll fit both runs, and than some duct tape, make sure it doesnt have any sharp edges.

 

Thanks for the pics...ill look again

 
great install. i planned to do a false floor on my 02 mountaineer tomorrow and seeng this helps alot. i got a few questions...

1. do you think its essiential to install the fans for airflow? does it get real hot having the area sealed off?

2. how much room do the amps have beneath???

my mountaineer has a different rear interior trim from the left and right side, and this would effect the symetrics of the false floor.

nice piano hinge idea. i originally thought of a piano hinge on the back 12" of the false floor, to allow access to the jack and rear tire area. but as i see, your whole floor can be lifted correct?

and as for keeping the box secure, my idea was to build a box, and put 4 peg feet on it, and have 4 corresponding wholes in the false floor, so the box could sit in place without fear of movement.

and im also throwing around the idea of having the speaker wire between the box and amp to have somekind of quick disconnect. almost like a typical 3 pronge indoor home use maybe.

oh and lastly, how much improvement did you notice from deadening the doors?

 
great install. i planned to do a false floor on my 02 mountaineer tomorrow and seeng this helps alot. i got a few questions...
1. do you think its essiential to install the fans for airflow? does it get real hot having the area sealed off?

2. how much room do the amps have beneath???

my mountaineer has a different rear interior trim from the left and right side, and this would effect the symetrics of the false floor.

nice piano hinge idea. i originally thought of a piano hinge on the back 12" of the false floor, to allow access to the jack and rear tire area. but as i see, your whole floor can be lifted correct?

and as for keeping the box secure, my idea was to build a box, and put 4 peg feet on it, and have 4 corresponding wholes in the false floor, so the box could sit in place without fear of movement.

and im also throwing around the idea of having the speaker wire between the box and amp to have somekind of quick disconnect. almost like a typical 3 pronge indoor home use maybe.

oh and lastly, how much improvement did you notice from deadening the doors?
As for the necessityof the fans...I don't know if it's a big issue, yet. It's really cool outside, so I don't think I would notice the need for them until we get into the 80's, at least. Second, my amps have fan cooling on them, already. I suppose you could just have the vents with no fans, but it might depend on how much power you're runing, and how hot your amps get.

Most amps have around the same height. Around 2 3/8". The height from the amp rack to the false floor is about 2 3/4"-3".

Yes, the whole floor is hinged at the back. The sub box quick disconnect you spoke of was what I had in mind, as well. My QD is using brass bolts, brass nuts, and copper washers to pass through the box. I used crimp on ring terminals inside the box, before passing them through the box, and double nutting them on the outside. I only need to loosen the nuts, to remove the wires. I don't think I would use location pins to set my sub box. They are heavy somsa biches, as it is. Just try to set the pins in the holes, by yourself without destroying the carpet, wood, vinyl, leather, etc...Might be easier to just use the same thing I did.

Can't say anything about the difference AFTER deadening the doors, as it was the first thing I did before anything else. I don't have a before, and after comparison to go by. HOWEVER...with the pounding going on in the doors, now... I can only guess that you would benefit from it.

 
I want 1 ground and 1 power.
Ill look tomorrow.

I was gonna put some deadener around the hole with no grommet if itll fit both runs, and than some duct tape, make sure it doesnt have any sharp edges.

Thanks for the pics...ill look again
Not sure that you would want to make a ground run that long. Every amp manual that I have seen sas to keep your ground runs less than 18" long. I grounded 2800 watts to the rear floor, and have no problems at all.

 
Not sure that you would want to make a ground run that long. Every amp manual that I have seen sas to keep your ground runs less than 18" long. I grounded 2800 watts to the rear floor, and have no problems at all.
No no.

I have 2 Powermaster D3100s in the rear that i would run them too....than from batts too amps

 
i have 2 like new gt-28's retail if you need more boston power //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

nice system m8

 
i have 2 like new gt-28's retail if you need more boston power //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
nice system m8
Mmm...probably not. I'm dimming the headlights as it is. But, I can recommend them to others. They do have some serious power, and sound great.

Note: I still have the final ground (for the big three) from the engine block to the battery to install. That might stop the headlights from dimming, on heavy bass notes. Also, the dimming is not all that bad, but you CAN see it.

 
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