12" Single Sub Recommendation with Rockford Fosgate p500-2

[largemouthbass]

Hello all,

I am currently looking for suggestions on what 12" single sub i should match with my Rockford Fosgate p500-2.

Live in a smaller town and the guy working behind the counter at the local audio install store was not giving me vibes that he knew anything about anything.

See stats below on amp, I was thinking a Rockford P3D2. I am confused with the 2 channel 2 ohms amp if i should get a sub with 4 ohms or 2 ohms. I listen to all types of music and am okay with more punchy than booming bass.

Size preferred (if configuration allows):12" single
Budget:$200-$275
Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance): See below
Space available (take measurements, do not guess): 17W and 17+L will put amp on sub box (hatchback style box)
Goals: Over all good sound, low and highs, punchy not so much boom type and reliable.
Listening habits: Indie and hip-hop
Preferred brands/subs/whatever: Whatver you think is best.

Rockford Fosgate p500-2.
Cta-2006 Compliant

Number of Channels
2
Total Power
(Sum of Rated Power)
500 Watts RMS
Rated Power
(RMS Continuous Power)
125 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm
250 Watts x 2 @ 2-Ohm
500 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohm Bridged
Dynamic Power
(PVC/PowerCube®)
229 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohms 0° Res
371 Watts x 2 @ 2-Ohms 0° Res
Bridgeable
Yes
Frequency Response
20Hz to 20kHz +/- 1.0dB
Input Sensitivity

Circuit Topology Class
Class A/B
Efficiency (average)
71% @ 4-Ohm
66% @ 2-Ohm
Total Harmonic Distortion (Thd+Noise)

Signal Input
Low level: 1 RCA pair
Signal Output
Low level: 1 RCA pair
Tone Controls
Punch EQ2 Bass: 0dB to +18dB @ 45Hz and/or
Punch EQ2 Treble: 0dB to +12dB @ 12kHz
Function depends upon LP/AP/HP switch position
Crossover Controls
High-Pass (HP): 50Hz-500Hz 12dB/octave Butterworth
Low-Pass (LP): 50-500Hz 12dB/octave Butterworth

P3D2 12"

• 12" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils
• anodized aluminum cone with Santoprene surround
• hybrid StampCast basket provides strength while minimizing weight and resonance
• Vertical Attach Surround Technique (VAST™) increases cone area
• power range: 300-600 watts RMS (1200 watts peak power)
• frequency response: 27-250 Hz
• sensitivity: 85 dB
• top-mount depth: 6-11/16"
• sealed box volume: .75-1.25 cubic feet
• ported box volume: 1.79 cubic feet
• grille not included

Click to read more...

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

If you must run that 2 channel amp, just get any 12” woofer that you can afford, dual 2 ohm so that you can wire the sub in series (500@4ohms). The RF is decent enough but in my opinion they don’t compete well, as well in that price range crowded field as a lot of others, American Bass, NVX, any number of brands. Heck this Dayton is an awesome sub at $207.48 plus tax, sjhipped! 3” VC, 2+2 ohm 3”VC, 800 watts RMS in a 2.37 cubic foot box (15Hx15Dx24w), tuned to an f3 of 26Hz 88.1db, stellar!

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...zotxWWaLg2J73ZNVsk3f4CqbCkG6RA5gaAuRIEALw_wcB

Or this NVX VCW122v3 12” Dual 2ohm sub is also a great, optimal sealed box volume: 0.85 cubic feet (.75lb stuffing) or optimal ported box volume: 1.85 cubic feet $209.00

VCW122v3 2400W Peak (1200W RMS) 12" VC-Series v3 Dual 2-Ohm Subwoofer

General Features: 12" Dual 2-ohm VC-Series v3 Car Subwoofer Power Handling: Peak Power Range: 2400 watts RMS Power Range: 1200 watts Impedance: Dual 2 ohm Xmax: 23mm (One-way) Carbon Fiber Enhanced Non-Pressed Paper Cone Custom High Roll foam surround with black nylon stitching Die Cast aluminum...

nvx.com

Or 2 of these in a 2.5 sealed enclsure, stuffed w/ 2lbs of polyfil for like $170.00 (Sonic elctronics) plus tax. Parker the basshead on youtube did a best under $100 (per sub) vid and agrees, hard to beat for SQ and overall value. I've used these in a sginle 1.25stuffed enclosure and they sound very good. They come in dual 2 or dual 4, you would want two dual 4 ohm units and you could wire the coils in series and the drivers in parlel to get to the 4ohm load. For sound quallity at 500watts, this would be my pick, especially for techno!

VSW104v2 1000W Peak (500W RMS) 10" VS-Series v2 Dual 4-Ohm Subwoofer

Product Details: 10" VS-Series Version 2 Dual 4-ohm Car Subwoofer Power Handling: RMS: 350 - 500 watts Aluminum Shorting Ring to prevent rises in inductance Non-Pressed Paper cone High Roll Custom Blended Foam surround Stamped Steel basket Single Nomex Spider 60oz Y30 High Energy Ferrite Magnet...

nvx.com

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

True, but he states that he has the amp already. 500 watts is what we have to work with. If I was limited to 2 of those 12's I mentioned or one of the other 12's I mentioned or the rockford he list, I would go with the two 12's. Make up for a little less power, same power but more dsplacment = more air moved. At this power rating, more air moved, mo better! At the end fof the day, 500 watts split between 2 12's isn't going to win any SPL contest but it's gonna thump and rattle the windows a bit.

 

[2023 LTZ]

That amp choice made sense in that you’ll be able to run a sub at 500w at 4 ohms. The single channel bd counterpart is 500w at 1 ohm. Some prefer this. I realize this is not answering your question.
The points and suggestions made are insightful.
I think many of us thought our original choices made sense only to find ourselves thousands into the hobby.
$389? Double down now and get the p1000.1 and the p3d4. Run it at 4ohm and should you decide to get a 4ch for your cabin speakers then do that too.
I can tell you the p1000.1 running P3D4s sounded good in my vehicle.
It quickly reaches a point where the bass overpowers the interior speakers. Then logic suggests getting a 4 ch amp and new speakers for inside the vehicle.
If you just bought that amp the reputable dealer will be happy to take it back and upgrade you to the p1000.1

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

That amp choice made sense in that you’ll be able to run a sub at 500w at 4 ohms. The single channel bd counterpart is 500w at 1 ohm. Some prefer this. I realize this is not answering your question.
The points and suggestions made are insightful.
I think many of us thought our original choices made sense only to find ourselves thousands into the hobby.
$389? Double down now and get the p1000.1 and the p3d4. Run it at 4ohm and should you decide to get a 4ch for your cabin speakers then do that too.
I can tell you the p1000.1 running P3D4s sounded good in my vehicle.
It quickly reaches a point where the bass overpowers the interior speakers. Then logic suggests getting a 4 ch amp and new speakers for inside the vehicle.
If you just bought that amp the reputable dealer will be happy to take it back and upgrade you to the p1000.1

Only thousands?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

This is a great sub for the $ DVC2 ohm sub. Wire exactly as shown for a final 4 ohm load for that amplifier

Amazon product ASIN B079D7RDQZ

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams for One 2 Ohm Dual Voice Coil Speaker

www.the12volt.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I have a pair of these tens and they take on a 1k PPI Phantom just fine

Amazon product ASIN B07CLNSMSK

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

1.0 cuft. sealed and 1.25 ported @32htz

Amazon product ASIN B00TRKD8Q2

 

[RobGMN 5,000+ posts]

I won't advise on a sub to buy, but I will tell you to read the advice people give you and see if it meets the goals you want.
Some people will tell you you need to double your budget for the driver, and buy an amp that is 4x the power of your RF. But they are wanting you to have a competition setup.

The reality is that for an everyday driver, and everyday listener (i.e. not trying to rattle windows at stoplights or do hair tricks), even moderately-priced subs in a proper box can perform really well.
I have what would be considered two "junkers", but when scoped with an RTA, they are really quite smooth in their FR. They definitely distort when pushed too hard, but I'm not looking to make my hearing worse so I listen at "normal levels" (i.e. sometimes loud enough to make my scalp itch, but usually loud enough to give me a good kick in the pants").

Good luck in your quest.

 

[largemouthbass]

I won't advise on a sub to buy, but I will tell you to read the advice people give you and see if it meets the goals you want.
Some people will tell you you need to double your budget for the driver, and buy an amp that is 4x the power of your RF. But they are wanting you to have a competition setup.

The reality is that for an everyday driver, and everyday listener (i.e. not trying to rattle windows at stoplights or do hair tricks), even moderately-priced subs in a proper box can perform really well.
I have what would be considered two "junkers", but when scoped with an RTA, they are really quite smooth in their FR. They definitely distort when pushed too hard, but I'm not looking to make my hearing worse so I listen at "normal levels" (i.e. sometimes loud enough to make my scalp itch, but usually loud enough to give me a good kick in the pants").

Good luck in your quest.

Do you have advice on where to get a solid box, right now i can only find this Atrend on sonic would prefer hatchback style

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-33869-Atrend-12SAL.html

 

[Firewalker]

GP Car Audio does glue it and screw it enclosures built to your subwoofer and port tuning you want.

 

[largemouthbass]

If you must run that 2 channel amp, just get any 12” woofer that you can afford, dual 2 ohm so that you can wire the sub in series (500@4ohms). The RF is decent enough but in my opinion they don’t compete well, as well in that price range crowded field as a lot of others, American Bass, NVX, any number of brands. Heck this Dayton is an awesome sub at $207.48 plus tax, sjhipped! 3” VC, 2+2 ohm 3”VC, 800 watts RMS in a 2.37 cubic foot box (15Hx15Dx24w), tuned to an f3 of 26Hz 88.1db, stellar!

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...zotxWWaLg2J73ZNVsk3f4CqbCkG6RA5gaAuRIEALw_wcB

View attachment 50953


Or this NVX VCW122v3 12” Dual 2ohm sub is also a great, optimal sealed box volume: 0.85 cubic feet (.75lb stuffing) or optimal ported box volume: 1.85 cubic feet $209.00

VCW122v3 2400W Peak (1200W RMS) 12" VC-Series v3 Dual 2-Ohm Subwoofer

General Features: 12" Dual 2-ohm VC-Series v3 Car Subwoofer Power Handling: Peak Power Range: 2400 watts RMS Power Range: 1200 watts Impedance: Dual 2 ohm Xmax: 23mm (One-way) Carbon Fiber Enhanced Non-Pressed Paper Cone Custom High Roll foam surround with black nylon stitching Die Cast aluminum...

nvx.com

View attachment 50955
Or 2 of these in a 2.5 sealed enclsure, stuffed w/ 2lbs of polyfil for like $170.00 (Sonic elctronics) plus tax. Parker the basshead on youtube did a best under $100 (per sub) vid and agrees, hard to beat for SQ and overall value. I've used these in a sginle 1.25stuffed enclosure and they sound very good. They come in dual 2 or dual 4, you would want two dual 4 ohm units and you could wire the coils in series and the drivers in parlel to get to the 4ohm load. For sound quallity at 500watts, this would be my pick, especially for techno!

VSW104v2 1000W Peak (500W RMS) 10" VS-Series v2 Dual 4-Ohm Subwoofer

Product Details: 10" VS-Series Version 2 Dual 4-ohm Car Subwoofer Power Handling: RMS: 350 - 500 watts Aluminum Shorting Ring to prevent rises in inductance Non-Pressed Paper cone High Roll Custom Blended Foam surround Stamped Steel basket Single Nomex Spider 60oz Y30 High Energy Ferrite Magnet...

nvx.com

View attachment 50959

I dont know if i am overthinking this, but because my AMPs RMS is 500 watts and most 12" subs I am being recommended are in the 1000 watt range is there any advantage of getting a 2ohm or 4ohm woofer with my 2 channel 2ohm amp? I have my eye on the NVX

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Impedance is a measure of resistance to the amplifier (that the amplifier sees). Speakers are made with difference resistance to enable you to match it to your amplifier. In your system, the ideal rating for that amp, the only option bridged, is 4ohm. At the end of the day, if you are going to run it bridged, full rated power, you have to run it 4 ohms. Any lower and you’ll damage the amp.

 

[largemouthbass]

Impedance is a measure of resistance to the amplifier (that the amplifier sees). Speakers are made with difference resistance to enable you to match it to your amplifier. In your system, the ideal rating for that amp, the only option bridged, is 4ohm. At the end of the day, if you are going to run it bridged, full rated power, you have to run it 4 ohms. Any lower and you’ll damage the amp.

so i shouldn't get the nvx as it is dual 2ohm?