Power for 15" Type R

[Wonderbread 5,000+ posts]

set everything up, turn the volume to 'halfway' o basically loud/normal listening volume...

turn gain all the way down on a track you are familiar with,

slowly increase the gain until distortion begins to present itself, then vback it off a touch..

 

[Wonderbread 5,000+ posts]

or, grab a DMM and test RCA output voltage...

then use the hand dandy calculator on Eatel's site to find the proper amplifier gain settings...

http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/gaincon2.htm

at the bottom

 

[Mark_ab 5,000+ posts]

Originally posted by indosia Most head units cannot drive an amp to full power with the gain set low. Some amps will put out no power at all with the gain turned all the way down.

Contrary to your arguement, the amplifier will always produce it's rated power at a specific impedence. A gain level is nothing more than a potentiometer used in matching input signals so that you have an effective swing in volume on your head unit. If both the preamp's voltage and the gain are set effectively, even a high voltage (7V+) signal will have the full volume band to work with before saturation occurs ("clipping"). Because gain levels are set low does not mean that there is no power going out, it simply means that the head unit's swing will be larger than the amplifiers ability to send out a louder signal. In other words, if you have the gain set too high, when you turn the volume up on your head unit, the loudspeaker gets too loud too quickly. Reaching maximum volume before saturation at, say, 10/30 is not useful. The opposite is true if the gain is too low. You cannot reach maximum volume even at 30/30; not because of the power output, but because of the signal differences.

 

[Wonderbread 5,000+ posts]

*bows and leaves the room*

 

[indosia 10+ year member]

Originally posted by Mark_ab Contrary to your arguement, the amplifier will always produce it's rated power at a specific impedence. A gain level is nothing more than a potentiometer used in matching input signals so that you have an effective swing in volume on your head unit. If both the preamp's voltage and the gain are set effectively, even a high voltage (7V+) signal will have the full volume band to work with before saturation occurs ("clipping"). Because gain levels are set low does not mean that there is no power going out, it simply means that the head unit's swing will be larger than the amplifiers ability to send out a louder signal. In other words, if you have the gain set too high, when you turn the volume up on your head unit, the loudspeaker gets too loud too quickly. Reaching maximum volume before saturation at, say, 10/30 is not useful. The opposite is true if the gain is too low. You cannot reach maximum volume even at 30/30; not because of the power output, but because of the signal differences.

I failed to relize how many people there are out there who will ruin there speakers by turning the volume all the way up. If you are 1 of those people, your better off powering a 15 type r with 250 watts. That way, when the amp is fully clipping your speaker won't be damaged. A 15 type R is a huge woofer, It's almost twice the size of a 12 type R. At 1 ohm my reference 500 was'nt enough power. maybe a jbl 600.1 will work. But the 1200.1 is cheap and it would definitly pound a 15 type r without breakin a sweat.

Your right, a gain is nothing more than a potientometer. In car audio potientometers are used to control volume. When you turn the volume down, the amp puts out less power.

 

[Wonderbread 5,000+ posts]

his sub is a dual 4 ohm..

wired to 2 ohms presumably...

i have never seen a Type R take that kind of power, (at elast 1000 watts RMS assuming 12V) and do it 'fine'

EDIT - this is known as overkill, why spend the extra cash? grab a 600.1, and unless you plan on adding another driver somewhere down the road, you will be more tahn fine

 

[indosia 10+ year member]

The 600.1 is $205.00 and the 1200.1 is $285.00. Why not just spend $80.00 more and get twice the power.

 

[Mark_ab 5,000+ posts]

Originally posted by indosia The 600.1 is $205.00 and the 1200.1 is $285.00. Why not just spend $80.00 more and get twice the power.

If he doesn't plan to upgrade in the future the 600.1 is a better choice. Not only from the standpoint of saving 80 dollars, but from an electrical system point of view. The current draw from a 1200.1 is 114A. With a stock alternator he would be looking into buying another one faster than if he had a 600.1.

 

[Wonderbread 5,000+ posts]

and the 600.1 can be had for under 200 dollars..

if you know where to look