Aeroports can decrease port size by 50%???

[PSturmer 10+ year member]

i dont see what he has to gain by making false claims. hes not even selling aero ports, he actually made a DIY tutorial on how to do them at home for yourself.
hes got quite a few accomplishments in the competition field as well. dont know why he would want to taint his, or his teams name with false statements.

i will agree, that is quite a gain, but like i said i have no reason to not believe him. but i also dont expect the same gain for my system either.

if it were true, then its not going to happen for another system. i could do the same exact test and gain not even 1 db

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

if it were true, then its not going to happen for another system. i could do the same exact test and gain not even 1 db

for all we know the gain could of also been on the AC mic, and the figure could be much closer to the already accepted "1-3" db gain.

just because it didnt happen for you, doenst mean it didnt happen for someone else.

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

7 dB by swapping port types is not going to happen.

 

[TheFiverMan 10+ year member]

if aero ports are done right and install correct u can gain up to 1-3dbs..

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

if aero ports are done right and install correct u can gain up to 1-3dbs..

Originally posted by Hexibase
Yes, flares do actually make audiable difference at high volumes both in SQ and SPL application at home and in car audio. The common conception is that a flared port will eliminate port "whistling" and, while it does, it also does a lot more. The back-wave sound more...open, it's hard to describe it without listening to it. At any rate, I've had flared ports yeeld upwards of 3.5dB over straight ports when used properly. As for the formulas, I make my own ports. You see, most aero/precision-type ports flare around 1/4 of a circle. Through a number of tests, I've come up with a more efficient curvature simular to that of a hyperbolic contour. Sort of like this:

My SPL Ports

That's just a test port that I'm holding up. I'm still working with TurnTech in having molds fabricated based on a set of precision plans and once I finish building my presses, I'll begin mass-producing my own 4" and 6" ports.

pretty good gain as well.

 

[Fred333 10+ year member]

Great thread. Just got done reading it. Lots of good info.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

since we're still on the topic and all, if you cant afford aero ports (or dont want to drop $40 on a single 6" port). i found this from Team Toxic Bass. basically a way of making a flared port (only on the exit side) on the cheap, using PVC pipe, and an extra piece of MDF. however you do need a router, and a circle jig to get it right. if you have it, you should be golden.

here is the link, although i have included the pictures that deal with the port design in this post linked from my photobucket, just incase TTB decides to delete that webpage. http://www.teamtoxicbass.com/~pete/car_audio/compvr_bass-reflex/index.html

After some careful analysis of the trunk / cabin transfer profile, I arrived at a simple off-axis bass-reflex as the most suitable loading approach for the CVX to perform along the customer’s listening preferences. As rudimentary as this project is, I still like to improvise with a little bit of “flare”. After the panels are cut, I prepare a 10.22” length of PVC along with a 6” x 6” mounting frame.

The port is then fitted into the frame cut-out and held in place with contact cement. Note: When cutting PVC, it is best to save the sanding for after the pipe has been flush-mounted onto the adjoining surface.

Next, I align the frame with the upper enclosure panel and dry-mount it firmly with a set of four screws (no counter-sinking).

Then it’s simply a matter of flipping the panel around and tracing the port’s inner diameter with a 1” round-over bit for an outer flare diameter of 6” (equivalent to that of an AeroPort).

Once I’ve assured that everything aligns, the frame is glued in permanently for a perfect seal along the double-stack. As an additional anti-air leak precaution I circled the MDF / PVC merge point with a ring of silicone.

With the panels disassembled, what would otherwise constitute a rather awkward and hard-to-reach aspect of the construction was made quite easy. Now onto the box assembly:

 

[Mr Cabinetry 10+ year member]

since we're still on the topic and all, if you cant afford aero ports (or dont want to drop $40 on a single 6" port). i found this from Team Toxic Bass. basically a way of making a flared port (only on the exit side) on the cheap, using PVC pipe, and an extra piece of MDF. however you do need a router, and a circle jig to get it right. if you have it, you should be golden.
here is the link, although i have included the pictures that deal with the port design in this post linked from my photobucket, just incase TTB decides to delete that webpage. http://www.teamtoxicbass.com/~pete/car_audio/compvr_bass-reflex/index.html

After some careful analysis of the trunk / cabin transfer profile, I arrived at a simple off-axis bass-reflex as the most suitable loading approach for the CVX to perform along the customer’s listening preferences. As rudimentary as this project is, I still like to improvise with a little bit of “flare”. After the panels are cut, I prepare a 10.22” length of PVC along with a 6” x 6” mounting frame.

The port is then fitted into the frame cut-out and held in place with contact cement. Note: When cutting PVC, it is best to save the sanding for after the pipe has been flush-mounted onto the adjoining surface.

Next, I align the frame with the upper enclosure panel and dry-mount it firmly with a set of four screws (no counter-sinking).

Then it’s simply a matter of flipping the panel around and tracing the port’s inner diameter with a 1” round-over bit for an outer flare diameter of 6” (equivalent to that of an AeroPort).

Once I’ve assured that everything aligns, the frame is glued in permanently for a perfect seal along the double-stack. As an additional anti-air leak precaution I circled the MDF / PVC merge point with a ring of silicone.

With the panels disassembled, what would otherwise constitute a rather awkward and hard-to-reach aspect of the construction was made quite easy. Now onto the box assembly:

This is not the same thing as a " FLARED PORT ", it's nothing more than a rounded over edge and I've been doing the same thing for sometime now to reduce the amount of port noise on the interior ends of round ports.

The exterior Flare of the Flared Port is greater than 1", I know this because I'm doing an enclosure using 4 - 3" flared ports and I physically measured every detail of the ports to accurately draft them up in Sketch UP.

The flared ports I am referring to are the ones sold by Parts Express and they are not even 3" ports, they are 2.75" ID w/ the OD of the flare @ 5 11/16" and the depth of the flare is 1.75" that effectively creates the radius of the flare @ 1.6904".

So, what your showing isn't creating flared port, merely a round over edged port.

And I'm sure that the principals involved for creating the tuning/design of a " Flared Port " are a alittle bit more involved than just rounding over the edge of the port and calling it a " flared port ".

I'm not going to debate or argue it because difference's are plain as day.

 

[BLD 25 10+ year member]

so to go a slightly different direction with this......when i build slot port enclosures, i smooth the slot port out quite a bit on the corner inside, the inside entrance, and then finally flare the outside. Does this help also?

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

This is not the same thing as a " FLARED PORT ", it's nothing more than a rounded over edge and I've been doing the same thing for sometime now to reduce the amount of port noise on the interior ends of round ports.
The exterior Flare of the Flared Port is greater than 1", I know this because I'm doing an enclosure using 4 - 3" flared ports and I physically measured every detail of the ports to accurately draft them up in Sketch UP.

The flared ports I am referring to are the ones sold by Parts Express and they are not even 3" ports, they are 2.75" ID w/ the OD of the flare @ 5 11/16" and the depth of the flare is 1.75" that effectively creates the radius of the flare @ 1.6904".

So, what your showing isn't creating flared port, merely a round over edged port.

And I'm sure that the principals involved for creating the tuning/design of a " Flared Port " are a alittle bit more involved than just rounding over the edge of the port and calling it a " flared port ".

I'm not going to debate or argue it because difference's are plain as day.

lol.

im willing to bet that if you used the math equations to figure out the decrease in vent velocity by rounding over a port edge youd see the gain.

the vent velocity decrease is dependent on the radius of the flare, whether it be large or small. there will be a decrease in vent velocity.

you dont have to argue or debate anything really. the differences ARE clear as day, but thats still a flared end on a round port and will help to reduce vent velocity

 

[Mr Cabinetry 10+ year member]

so to go a slightly different direction with this......when i build slot port enclosures, i smooth the slot port out quite a bit on the corner inside, the inside entrance, and then finally flare the outside. Does this help also?

If you round over any sharp corner of the port it reduces the chances of port noise occurring.

As for flaring the outside opening of the port, every little bit helps.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

in regards to this

and the response from another well respected member of the boards, when people asked, whats the point...

originally posted by helotaxiThe increase in cross sectional area will have a diffusing effect, even though it is only on one side. It will improve flow and reduce port speed at the exit point which can help out a lot in the realm of port noise. Say the port is 3" wide and the single sided flare is a 3" radius. You've doubled cross sectional area and halved velocity at the mouth of the port. Same priciple as a full flare on a round port. You do have to account for the volume of air in the flare though.

this applies to round ports as well. and the reduction of speed at the exit is dependent on the rounded over "flare" on the box in the previous post.

you would have to actually sit down, measure it out, and calculate the reduction in velocity though. and since that isnt my tutorial (this is TTB's. i was just trying to give people an idea of how to accomplished a flared aero effect [to a degree] without shelling out the cash) i cant sit down and give you a measurable figure to prove a point.

and then again, you will just argue that "theory" is way different than "real life" even though, i have shown you results from competitors that support the math almost to a T.

 

[Mr Cabinetry 10+ year member]

lol.
im willing to bet that if you used the math equations to figure out the decrease in vent velocity by rounding over a port edge...

the vent velocity decrease is dependent on the radius of the flare, whether it be large or small. there will be a decrease in vent velocity.

you dont have to argue or debate anything really. the differences are clear as day, but thats still a flared end on a round port and will help to reduce vent velocity

Screw the math, prove it. Talk is cheap, results speak louder than a bunch of numbers on a piece of paper.

Get someone that doesn't has any vested interest in the outcome to do 4" port rounded over port edges w/ 1" round over " and a 4" aero port, indentical spec's for the enclosure and if the results are not identical and I mean " IDENTICAL ", that will but this nonsense to bed once and for all.

Till then, it's nothing other than what you say it is and that don't mean squat.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

Screw the math, prove it. Talk is cheap, results speak louder than a bunch of numbers on a piece of paper.
Get someone that doesn't has any vested interest in the outcome to do 4" port rounded over port edges w/ 1" round over " and a 4" aero port, indentical spec's for the enclosure and if the results are not identical and I mean " IDENTICAL ", that will but this nonsense to bed once and for all.

Till then, it's nothing other than what you say it is and that don't mean squat.

ok, heres an idea. since i dont have the tools... but you do, and you want the proof so bad...you do it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/idea.gif.5acb6a39a9b92425414c316dda202bad.gif

in the mean time, ill take the math, and the real world results from competitors over your opinion anyday.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

in regards to this

and the response from another well respected member of the boards, when people asked, whats the point...

this applies to round ports as well. and the reduction of speed at the exit is dependent on the rounded over "flare" on the box in the previous post.

you would have to actually sit down, measure it out, and calculate the reduction in velocity though. and since that isnt my tutorial (this is TTB's. i was just trying to give people an idea of how to accomplished a flared aero effect [to a degree] without shelling out the cash) i cant sit down and give you a measurable figure to prove a point.

and then again, you will just argue that "theory" is way different than "real life" even though, i have shown you results from competitors that support the math almost to a T.

lol, i was right.

funniest part = the fact that the math used to figure out port length, displacement, etc is good enough for you when its used to make money for the boxes you build, but when its something you disagree with, the math is all of a sudden invalid.