What do you think bout' my system?

[colt325e 10+ year member]

Can someone give me a link to an amp i should get, like the JBL you were talking about. Im hoping to spend from 100-150 on an amp. thanks

colt325e

 

[colt325e 10+ year member]

Those will be able to power 2 300 rms infinitys??

colt

 

[colt325e 10+ year member]

How about Boss's Ripper-695?http://www.millionbuy.com/bosrip695.html

opinions?

 

[jbl_marshall21 10+ year member]

How about Boss's Ripper-695?http://www.millionbuy.com/bosrip695.html
opinions?

nope don't do it. thats a bad amp. won't put out the power.

this is what u need. http://www.millionbuy.com/prfca800.html

especially if ur subs r going to be dvc (dual voice coil)

 

[jbl_marshall21 10+ year member]

also i wanted to know what some of u guys thought of that visonik amp the guy showed. i know the higher line is good. but what about that line?

 

[colt325e 10+ year member]

Im confused on this, will that amp marshall mentioned be enough to power 2 300 rms subs, with a max of 1200? Because the one he mentioned is 800

question that has nothing to do with this: how many dB is a gunshot?

 

[geolemon 10+ year member]

Im confused on this, will that amp marshall mentioned be enough to power 2 300 rms subs, with a max of 1200? Because the one he mentioned is 800
question that has nothing to do with this: how many dB is a gunshot?

Free answers:

Gunshot -

It doesn't matter, it's not even close to the same frequency range, so it doesn't matter, any comparison you might draw to what SPL competitions do...

Let's say for no particular reason that a gunshot was 140dB.

It's a high frequency, that much high frequency energy could instantly damage your hearing.

That same 140dB, in the low frequency range, might just be enough to start getting interesting, shaking things around. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Amps -

the Boss amp you mentioned is rated at 250x2, bridged it will do 600x1 (rms).

The Profile amp he mentioned is 200x2, bridged it will do 700x1 (rms).

Absolutely never look at "max" power numbers, it's meaningless.

I could take an amplifier, and run it to a dead short, and for a fraction of an instant, a spark might flow of such a charge that if measured, and compared to the amp's voltage, might do 10,000 watts... that spark also happening to instantly melt the amp. It's just a meaningless number, with no standards behind it.

RMS, on the other hand, is a measurement of how much power can flow through the amp on a continuous basis, as you might find in normal operating conditions, and (most importantly) there are standards dictating how RMS is calculated.

You can often tell a cheap amp (ie. one that's not worth owning) by one of two things:

1) the amp's power ratings are silk-screened on the heatsink (surprisingly accurate indicator, despite having obviously no real necessary correlation!).

2) the amp's power ratings on the packaging/marketing material list "max" power specs.

Both of these things are done to appeal to absolutely NO one but the newbie, who sees larger numbers, and yet doesn't understand them. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Personally, I think neither of these suits your needs...

Both of these amps are class A/B amps (nearly all multi-channel amps are).

Class D amps (most mono sub amps are) are more efficient, and cost less, per watt. They also usually come with built-in features that are more appropriate specifically for use as a subwoofer amp.

If you want 600 watts, the JBL 600.1 does that, and it's cheap, and reliable, and JBL is a reputable company... some might say that the others you've mentioned are not... but it's all relative.

Check out http://www.ikesound.com for a steal on that amp.

Before you buy any amp though, you do need to purchase an amp that will be compatible with the impedance of your subs...

What subs were they, and what impedance?

 

[colt325e 10+ year member]

http://www.millionbuy.com/inf1230w.html

"Impedance: 4 Ohms"

I will check out jbl

thanks

 

[geolemon 10+ year member]

OK, np..

So we have two 4 ohm subs... you'll be wiring those in parallel so that the amp "sees" a 2 ohm load.

So what you want is an amp that makes it's max power into 2 ohms... and I think that JBL is a good fit, it's 600 watts into 2 ohms.

 

[geolemon 10+ year member]

You might poke around ikesound there too...

This guy makes his living off this site, and his Ebay auctions.

His Ebay auctions are usually a few bucks less, but his store offers free shipping on most goods - works out to pretty much the same deal.

 

[jbl_marshall21 10+ year member]

uh dude, go to ikesound, find ur the subs on there. get the dvc ones, (they cost 6 dollars more) and get the profile ca800 from where ever is cheaper. the profile amp is more reliable than the jbl. u will be able to get 300 watts to each sub that way.

 

[geolemon 10+ year member]

uh dude, go to ikesound, find ur the subs on there. get the dvc ones, (they cost 6 dollars more) and get the profile ca800 from where ever is cheaper. the profile amp is more reliable than the jbl. u will be able to get 300 watts to each sub that way.

The profile amp is a less-efficient class A/B amp, and it would require the unnecessary purchase of more expensive woofers just to be compatible with the fundamentally less efficient amp type.

Not to mention, I've had nothing but poor experiences with Profile amps...

Everything from poor noise isolation, to optimistic power ratings, poor sound quality, and switchgear whose detants have worn and loosened. I've owned one myself, and it was quite literally the only amp that I've owned that I've been disappointed with - and not just one, but many aspects of it.

Granted, I try to avoid lower-end brands like that, but even with my lowered expectations, I was dissatisfied. I'd recommend you avoid the lower-end stuff also, "low price" doesn't always work out to "bang for the buck"... or even "satisfactory, given the low buck I paid", seriously.

On the other hand, the JBL amps will actually put out what they are rated for, reliability is great. One friend of mine has been pleased with 1200.1 for years, it's a real powerhouse. Many guys on the forums have these amps, and really compliment the bang for the buck that you get from the series. They also do make cosmetically-matching class A/B amps, they have a pretty cool, more upscale look about them, should you be putting together a more show-worthy install down the line..

An additional bonus is that you won't have a brand of amp in your car that's sold at Pep Boys, Wal Mart, and discount catalogs... a little more street cred will earn you some more respect from the higher-end enthusiasts at shows and comps. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[colt325e 10+ year member]

would the RUBICON II 2CH 500W Amplifier be able to handle 2 300 watt rms Infinity subs? i dont understand how much power you need, can you explain this to me? thanks.

these are the subs http://www.millionbuy.com/inf1230w.html

thanks

-colt-

 

[B|2imstone 10+ year member]

for a head unit i would recommend the clarion dxz835mp. you can get it for as cheap as $200 on ebay and it is almost top of the line clarion. my friend has the deck and its great. i would normally go with pioneer for 200 bucks but since the price dropped on the clarion i would definitely get that.